7 Reasons Why You Must Visit the Finger Lakes in New York

Destinations, Finger Lakes, Finger Lakes Living

This is our love story. It starts in the New York Finger Lakes region. I’m guessing that you probably didn’t know: There are eleven Finger Lakes centrally located in the State of New York. Keuka Lake is ours. Thirty years ago, we gave our hearts to each other, and Keuka Lake stole them both. There are many reasons why you must visit the Finger Lakes in New York now. In this post I will tell you just seven.

Lisa with Bebette at bonfire — Bebette and me by the bonfire.

Falling in Love in the Finger Lakes.

Our love affair began when our matchmaking best friend, Bebette, introduced us to each other. It was our third year of law school. But, Bebette refused to stop there. Instead, she stayed on us, relentlessly I might add, until we were a couple!

Pat and Lisa kissing in an apple orchard

We first visited Bebette’s home on Keuka Lake together for our law school graduation party in May of 1989. It was a burn it down kind of party that we still talk about today! The rest, as they say, is history.

That summer, with a sprawling view of the lake in front of us, I said, “I love you” to Pat for the first time sitting on the front porch of Bebette’s parent’s lake home. We were drinking beer and eating peanuts. I think Pat may have choked and said, “I love peanuts.”

1. The Finger Lakes Are What Dreams Are Made Of.

During the many summers we spent on Keuka Lake, we developed “Flag Holiday” traditions surrounding Memorial Day, Fourth of July, and Labor Day. We spent lazy days on the water, boating, skiing, floating and swimming. (The water sport options were much more limited back then.) In the evenings, dining al fresco under the stars, we lingered at the dinner table with family and friends. We laughed, played games and told stories at beach bonfires.

Pat and Lisa on their Boat in the Finger Lakes

We enjoyed long boat rides, hanging close along the shore. Pointing to tiny ramshackle cottages, we would say: “We’re going to buy that one some day.” Then we would laugh. We never really dreamed it would come true.

Pat and Lisa jumping into Keuka Lake, Finger Lakes, New York — Taking the Plunge!

Then, it did! Just a few years ago, we had the courage to chase our dream. It was unexpected, a leap of faith, a gamble. Somehow, with the help of Bebette, it all came together.

Red Umbrella and Chairs overlooking Keuka Lake

We love to travel and explore the world. Perhaps even more, we love coming home to Keuka Lake. Here are six more reasons why we love the region and why you should visit the Finger Lakes now.

2. The Finger Lakes in New York are Still an “Under the Radar” Destination.

Odds are that you have never heard of the New York Finger Lakes. And, that just may be the number one reason why you should visit!

Essential Facts About the Finger Lakes:

The Finger Lakes are centrally located in New York State within the area between Rochester at the West, Elmira-Corning at the South, and Syracuse at the East.
There are 11 Finger Lakes. They are: Canadice, Canandaigua, Cayuga, Conesus, Hemlock, Honeoye, Keuka, Otisco, Owasco, Seneca, and Skaneateles. All, except Keuka Lake, are long and narrow and shaped like fingers. Keuka Lake is the only Finger Lake shaped like a Y, similar to Lake Como in Italy.
There are over 1000 waterfalls to explore in the Finger Lakes region of New York.
Each lake has its own unique vibe, ranging from rustic nature refuge to upscale resort area.
The Finger Lakes are an easy drive from any of the major Upstate New York cities and only about four and a half hours from New York City.
Every season is beautiful on the Finger Lakes. In each season, there are opportunities for a outdoor activities, enjoying world class food and wine, and simply relaxing in the the tranquility of the region.

A romantic table for two on a dock in Finger Lakes, New York

Freshwater blue-green glacial lakes, waterfalls, gorges and vineyards are bountiful throughout the area. Yet, the Finger Lakes remain unspoiled, uncrowded, and for the most part, undiscovered as a travel destination. The Finger Lakes are not overcome by tourism. Your visit is guaranteed to be relaxed and uncomplicated. Your perfect spot awaits.

But, the word is out! The Finger Lakes region was recently named as one of Bloomberg’s top 24 travel destinations to visit in 2020. There is no better time to visit our dazzling and charming Finger Lakes region.

3. Visit the Finger Lakes in Upstate New York for an Experience that is A World Apart from New York City.

When people think of New York, the first image that often comes to mind is the Big Apple, Manhattan. NYC is one of our favorite places to visit. Undeniably, the frenetic energy of the City that never sleeps is exhilarating. The Finger Lakes, at the opposite end of the spectrum, are equally intoxicating.

Close your eyes. Imagine driving leisurely along winding and rolling country roads. You pass lush green cow pastures, and the road takes you along crystal clear blue-green lakes, up and down rolling hills, and by verdant vineyards. Then, you find yourself in the middle of the perfect little Americana town. That is the New York Finger Lakes region!

Manhanattanites and Upstate New Yorkers may as well be from different sides of the ocean. To native “New Yorkers,” anything north of the Bronx is “Upstate.” Located approximately 250 miles from New York City, the Finger Lakes are way upstate. The truth is, New Yorkers think we are all a bunch of farmers. We think the joke is on them!

Our daily work lives are hectic. The pace is slower and the days just a bit longer at the lake. Life is simpler.

Blue sunset and red Adirondack chairs on the dock on Keuka Lake

The hardest thing about visiting the Finger Lakes is deciding the type of experience you prefer. Do you favor an uncomplicated and quiet stay in the country, the sweet Americana charm of a weekend in a quaint village, the pampering of a world class spa, a five-star food and wine experience, or the understated indulgence of a lake side cottage? Whatever adventure you choose, one thing is certain. You will not visit the New York Finger Lakes without falling hopelessly in love.

Lisa and Pat forming a heart with their arms with a view of Keuka Lake — We love Keuka Lake!

Find more information about where to stay, what to do, and trip planning tools on the web at: Yates County Chamber of Commerce, Visit Ithaca, Canandaigua Chamber of Commerce, and Skaneateles Chamber of Commerce. You will find additional information at the Finger Lakes Tourism Alliance, Visit Finger Lakes, and Finger Lakes Regional Tourism Council.

4. Drive to Visit the Finger Lakes in New York to Drink in the Gorgeous Countryside.

Finger Lakes Country in New York — Finger Lakes Country

Still, after thirty years, when I hop into my car to make the ninety-mile drive from where we work in Syracuse, New York, to our lake home, my heart starts beating a little faster. I feel a smile creep onto my face. It is as if someone has let me out of a cage and set me free outdoors.

Lisa Driving her red Mini Cooper on Country Roads in the Finger Lakes

The Finger Lakes are an easy drive from any of the major Upstate New York cities (Buffalo, Rochester, Syracuse and Albany), and only about four and a half hours from New York City. No matter where you begin, the drive to any one of the eleven Finger Lakes will take you along country roads, through quaint and charismatic small towns and past farms, antique shops, hometown diners, farm markets, flower and produce stands and vineyards.

A vineyard view in Finger Lakes, New York

The country roads in the Finger Lakes are long and winding, and rolling up and down hills. Often there are no other vehicles for miles. In the summer, lush green grass and fields of corn line the roads. Neat rows of grapevines in the vineyards tumble gently down hill.

Every Season in the Finger Lakes is Gorgeous.

In the fall, green meadows fade into golden corn fields against the back drop of fiery foliage, leaves of gold, orange and red. The drive in winter is like traveling through a desert lightly dusted with white snow. White flakes swirl around the faded gold and brown farmland and vineyards. Barns, fields, and trees sparkle in the sun light. As spring erupts, the grassy fields turn a bright yellow-green, the apple orchards burst with white blooms, and baby chicks peep around farmyards near the new born shaky-legged calves.

I don’t always love to drive distances. But, I love driving in the Finger Lakes. I can feel the stress melt away as I exit the New York Thruway and start my venture down the country roads. A relaxed drive to the Finger Lakes is the perfect way to whet your appetite for the tranquil feast for the body and soul you will experience when you visit the Finger Lakes.

5. Visit the Finger Lakes for the lakes, of course!

Without question, what we love most about our region is our lake. There is nothing better than lounging on our dock, a cold drink in hand, soaking in the vibrant or sometimes muted colors of the wildly romantic sunsets, or taking a relaxed booze cruise at sunset on a quiet Sunday night.

Each of the 11 Finger Lakes has a different personality. The region is ideal for kayaking, hiking, biking, boating and just chilling. If you talk to someone who is familiar with the area, there is no doubt she will gush about her favorite lake. In this post, I will highlight only some features about a few of the lakes. Look for more in depth information about each of the lakes in future posts!

Canadice Lake is the Nature Lover’s Paradise.

The smallest lake, Canadice, is just three miles long and .3 miles wide. There is no development on the shoreline of Canadice Lake. In fact, development along the shore is prohibited. It is pure unspoiled nature. Swimming is not permitted. Boats are restricted to seventeen feet in length and ten horsepower motors. Canadice Lake is surrounded by the Hemlock-Canadice State Forest, which covers 6,684 acres. This Finger Lake is a haven for nature lovers and fishermen. Grab a kayak and paddle in peace!

It’s all Fun, Funky and Waterfalls on Cayuga Lake.

Cayuga Lake is the longest lake, at approximately 40 miles long. At the south end of Cayuga Lake lies the City of Ithaca, New York, home to Cornell University as well as Ithaca College. An artsy, hippie-ish college town, Ithaca is a small hub of art, culture, diversity and nature.

We’ve caught some excellent live musical performances at small venues in Ithaca. The Haunt is an iconic and classic spot for live shows.

Unique among the towns in the Finger Lakes, in the middle of downtown Ithaca there is a four-block area closed to vehicular traffic called “Ithaca Commons.” There you will find an eclectic mix of shops and restaurants, public art displays, and street performers.

View of a gorge and waterfall in the Finger Lakes

The City of Ithaca on Cayuga Lake is Gorges!

Ithaca’s slogan is, “Ithaca is Gorges.” In a ten-mile area, there are over 150 waterfalls Glaciers carved out these gorges millions of years ago. Robert H. Treman State Park is one of the parks located located within the City of Ithaca. A winding and rugged gorge trail runs through the park and past 12 waterfalls. The largest waterfall is 115 feet tall! Check out some of Ithaca’s waterfalls here.

Visit Canandaigua Lake for a Buzz of Activity.

Boathouses at City Pier in Canandaigua, New York — Boathouses at City Pier on Canandaigua Lake

Main St. in Canandaigua, New York — Main St. Canandaigua

Canandaigua Lake buzzes with activity, especially in the summer. These boathouses at City Pier remind me of a New England fishing town. They were built in 1853 and are still used today. In the 1800’s the boathouses were owned by people who couldn’t afford lake houses. The boathouses are built on “finger piers” jutting out into the water. The area is alluring and photogenic. It is a favorite subject of amateur and professional photographers alike. Along the piers there are a few shops and restaurants. Directly across from the piers is a public park, Kershaw, with a public beach and access point to the lake.

You Will Be Enthralled by Extravagances in Canandaigua.

Canandaigua has been called the unofficial “welcome mat” of the Finger Lakes Wine Country. Just off of Main Street in Canandaigua, New York and only steps from the lake, New York Kitchen offers a unique experience for foodies, including local food and wine pairings and classes. The mission of New York Kitchen is to educate and immerse visitors in the craft beverage, culinary and agriculture bounty of the region.

Colorful Alley on Main St in Canandaigua — Alley off Main St., Canadaigua, New York

Canandaigua Lake is one of the more upscale Finger Lakes. I grew up in a middle class family. My well-off friend had fancy old farmhouse right on Canandaigua Lake where her family summered. It was a special treat if I was invited to visit. What kid doesn’t love the feeling of running down a dock and jumping into a lake? In those days, we used tire inner tubes to float in the water. We would spending the whole day lounging in our black rubber tubes, laughing in the lake.

True Lily Shop, Canandaigua — Shop on Main St.

What I though was fancy 40 years ago pales in comparison to what you will find on Canandaigua Lake today. Extravagant homes, condos and marinas line the shores of this lake. Bloomberg reports that the high end architects and designers at Studio Tack will soon open Lake House on Canandaigua Lake, which will include a spa and timber -framed event barn.

Skaneateles is Another Place to Go for an Upscale Experience.

Dickens Village in Skaneateles, New York

Arguably, the prettiest little town in the Finger Lakes is the historic Village of Skaneateles. That is also the name of its lake. The upscale village has much to experience year round. I love to visit Skaneateles, but in the end it is a little too frou-frou for me. I prefer to be on the more laid back Keuka.

Skaneateles is a Charming Village, Steeped in History, With Sweeping Lake Views.

In the center of the Village of Skaneateles is the classic and popular Sherwood Inn and Restaurant, built as a stage coach stop in 1807, and operating today year round. In the lakefront park across the street you can take in scenic views of Skaneateles Lake, one of the purest lakes in the country. Hop on an old-fashioned dinner boat and cruise around the lake. Look for fun festivals and a farmers market throughout the year. After Thanksgiving through Christmas, the Village becomes the charming storybook Dickens Village with live characters, performances, music and special events.

If You Prefer Posh, Opt for Skaneateles.

For a posh and pampering experience, there’s Mirbeau Inn and Spa in Skaneateles. Mirbeau has a long list of accolades, including being named on of the 100 best spas in North America by Conde Nast. I’ve been to many spas. I agree that Mirbeau ranks at the top. The pre-treatment relaxation room feels very old world, perhaps a bit like the ancient Roman baths. At minimum, you should plan to spend a full day at the spa.

The restaurant at Mirbeau is cozy in the cold weather. But, my favorite time to visit is in the summer. Sitting on the terrace overlooking the garden, it feels like you are sitting in the middle of a Monet painting.

Gazebo on Skaneateles Lake in the Finger Lakes — North Shore of Skaneateles Lake

It’s hard not to love idyllic Skaneateles.

Visit Seneca Lake for Trout fishing, Nascar and Chasing Waterfalls.

Seneca Lake is nearly as long as Cayuga Lake and is the deepest of the Finger Lakes. The deepest points of Seneca are 618 feet! Fisherman love the trout, Atlantic salmon, small mouth bass, yellow perch, and other fish swimming in the cold and deep Seneca Lake waters.

View of Seneca Lake in the New York Finger Lakes — Seneca Lake View from Seneca Lake State Park

Main St. Geneva, New York — Main St., Geneva, New York

Seneca Lake is flanked by two lovely towns. At the North end of Seneca Lake is Geneva. Geneva is home to Hobart & William Smith Colleges. Geneva has a distinctly college-town, trendy vibe.

World Class Dining Awaits in Geneva, New York.

In Geneva you can experience world class dining. F.L.X. Table , an intimate 14-seat venue, receives rave reviews. The restaurant was recently named one of the best in the United States! You must book online a month in advance when the reservations open at the beginning of the month. It’s like the lottery. It seems like pure luck if you can snag a spot. We haven’t yet won one.

Seneca Lake Pier in Watkins Glen — The Pier at Watkins Glen

Watkins Glen is Edgy and Exciting.

Sailboats at Marina in Watkins Glen, NY — Village Marina in Watkins Glen, NY

At the opposite end of Seneca Lake lies Watkins Glen, anchoring Seneca Lake at the south. Watkins Glen is famous for its exciting NASCAR racing, Watkins Glen International.

Gorges and Waterfalls Await in Watkins Glen State Park.

Another highlight is Watkins Glen State Park. Hiking the Gorge Trail at Watkins State Park is one of my favorite things to do in the area. There are 19 waterfalls along the stone path of this trail. The 1.5 mile path winds under and over the waterfalls and through stone carved tunnels. Get there early though, because the park attracts thousand of visitors each year. It’s so much more fun (and peaceful), when it seems like you’re the only one there.

Waterfall at Watkins Glen Gorge Trail — Watkins Glen Gorge Trail

Keuka Lake Is Unique Among the Finger Lakes

Keuka is different from the rest. It is the only lake that is shaped like a “Y.” At 800 feet above sea level, the views from Keuka’s bluff are incredible.

View of Keuka Lake from the West Bluff — View of Keuka from the West Side

Keuka Lake is a popular destination for scenic drives and cycling. To us, Keuka is the perfect blend of quiet country and understated, unpretentious lake luxury.

Penn Yan is Priceless.

Penn Yan, a classic little American town, is located at the north end of Keuka Lake. In Penn Yan, there is a unique mix of bars and homey restaurants. The Penn Yan Diner, for example, is a traditional old school Galion Dining Car style diner located on Elm Street. It originally opened in 1925. The venue is quite small. There are 5 tables and 10 counter stools. But, the menu is surprisingly varied including tasty and unique breakfast dishes.

Birket Mills view from the Keuka Outlet Trail — Birkett Mills

The Keuka Outlet Trail Connects Keuka and Seneca Lakes.

Hiking or biking the Keuka Outlet Trail is an active adventure we enjoy year round. The 7-mile trail begins in Penn Yan near The Birkett Mills (which is world famous for buckwheat products). It spans from the top of Keuka Lake to the Town of Dresden on Seneca Lake. The trail is open to hikers, cyclists and horseback riders. There are several access points along the trail and two waterfalls along the way. Don’t miss Turtle Pond where the small turtles line up on fallen trees to sun themselves.

Pat and Lisa in front of Waterfall on Keuka Outlet Trail

Hammondsport is Always Cool.

The Village of Hammondsport is at the south end of Keuka Lake. Hammondsport was voted “Coolest Small Town in America” by readers of Budget Travel. I love the character and calmness of this little town. In the middle of this delightful village restaurants, shops and antique stores are organized around a town square and veterans memorial park and gazebo.

It’s relaxing to enjoy a glass of wine and a snack sitting in the park, or at a sidewalk table of one of the restaurants and watch the low key bustle of activity.

Church in Village of Hammondsport — Hammondsport

There are several unique inns and bed and breakfasts in Hammondsport. In the summer and fall there a quiet hum of activity, day and night. But, Hammondsport never seems over crowded.

Throughout the year Hammondsport hosts several events, including an antique boat show and music in the park during the summer months. The lake shore is about a three block walk from the Village center.

Hammondsport, New York Antique Boat Show — Hammondsport Antique Boat Show

Tour de Keuka , an event promoted by the Hammondsport Chamber of Commerce, is an annual charity bike ride that benefits the Food Bank of the Southern Tier. Cyclists participate in a 17, 45, 60 or a 100-mile ride to raise money to feed families struggling with hunger.

6. When Visiting the Finger Lakes You Must Drink Wine.

For the second year in a row, in 2019 the Finger Lakes region was named the best wine region in the United States by readers of USA Today In addition, Wine Enthusiast recently recognized the Finger Lakes as one of five “under the radar” wine regions to visit. There are more than 120 wineries in the area. Many of them have been recognized for outstanding wines. The area is best known for producing excellent Rieslings. Red wines produced in this region, however, are also now gaining notoriety.

View of Keuka Lake from Bully Hill Vineyards

Each of the wineries has its own vibe, ranging the gamut — from rustic old barn, to industrial, to romantic chateau.

Winemakers from around the world are making wine in the Finger Lakes. At some of the wineries, it feels like you have been transported to Sonoma, or even to Italy. At many of the wineries, there are sweeping views of the rolling hills and lakes.

Collage of photos of Domaine LeSeurre Winery in the Finger Lakes — Ravines Wine Cellars

Weiss Vineyards on Keuka Lake — Weiss Vineyards

Here you will find mapped wine trails on Canandaigua, Cayuga, Keuka and Seneca Lakes, where the majority of the wineries are located. You can also find more information at the Finger Lakes Tourism Alliance. It’s easy to book a winery tour. Or, it’s even more fun to strike out on your own and wander leisurely along the country roads and lakes from winery to winery.

7. Newer to the Region Are Microbreweries and Distilleries That You Must Also Visit.

Collage of Photos Starkey's Outlook on Seneca Lake — Starkey’s Lookout Tasting Room-Seneca Lake

But, don’t stop there! More recently, breweries and distilleries have popped up throughout the region and are gaining popularity. Like the wineries, many host live music and serve local and/or seasonal fare. In the summer, these venues often host food trucks on site and a festive atmosphere. Check out the Finger Lakes Beer Trail website for a map of participating breweries and events.

Collage of Photos of Finger Lakes Distilling on Seneca Lake — Finger Lakes Distilling on Seneca Lake

There is a listing of some of the microbreweries and distilleries on the Finger Lakes Wine Country website. Regional distilleries offer tastings of distilled vodka, whiskey, brandy and liqueurs made from locally grown produce. Like the wineries and breweries in the region, the distilleries frequently host entertainment and food specialties to complement your tasting experience.

The Love Affair Continues …

Thirty years later, our love affair continues exactly where it began. The lake is magnetic and at times downright dreamy. Our hearts skip with excitement at first glimpse of the lake when we arrive. Sadness still sets in every single time we depart. When I wake in the morning, I rush to the front windows to sneak a peak at the water. It reminds of the mood rings that were popular in the 1970’s, except that my mood ring was always black.

The color of the lake changes throughout the day and throughout the seasons. It can be bright blue, emerald green, silvery, black-gold. The variations seem endless.

Lisa and Pat on a boat ride Keuka Lake in the fall in Finger Lakes, New York

We fell for this mesmerizing place at the same time we fell for each other. And, to this day, there is no place we would rather be than hanging out alone, together on Keuka Lake. You really should visit.

What To Do If You Have 9 Hours in Chicago

Chicago, Destinations, United States

Isabella on Navy Pier — Isabella spreading her wings in Chicago!

We thought we were empty nesters when our youngest left for college. We didn’t know then that there are stages of being an empty nester.

Isabella recently moved to the Chicago after graduating from college. Just a couple of weeks later, we drove a U-Haul halfway across the U.S. to deliver her possessions.

You have to actually stop for a cross country drive to be fun!

The drive wasn’t as exciting as I had imagined. I fantasized about stopping at some interesting spots along the way. I envisioned a mini cross country adventure. That didn’t happen.

However, I am a delighted and proud mother hen. Isabella whisked us through the City of Chicago on a perfectly planned and executed 1-day itinerary two days after our delivery!

There Are Several Lovely Towns West of Downtown Chicago within Easy Train Access.

Downtown Wheaton, Illinois — Our Point of Delivery – Wheaton, Illinois

Our point of delivery was about 30 minutes west of downtown Chicago, Wheaton, Illinois. We carved out one day into the two and a half days that we were in the area to spend in downtown Chicago. We had about 9 hours on a Saturday afternoon and evening to pack in as much as we could during our visit to the City.

WARNING: If you don’t like walking, and sometimes fast, you won’t like this itinerary.

TRAVEL TIP: Wheaton is on the Metra line and about 50 minutes, either by train or driving (due to traffic), from downtown Chicago. There are several train stops between Wheaton and the Chicago OTC station, including towns like Glen Ellyn, Lombard, Villa Park and Elmhurst. Any one of these towns may be a convenient and economical place to stay outside of downtown Chicago.

The First Thing To Do in Chicago is to Visit Millennium Park.

Total Time To Allot: 30-45 minutes to see a couple of the highlights.

We started our day with a stop at Millennium Park located in the Chicago Loop area. The park is on the east side of the downtown area. Chicago shines bright on a sunny day. Glass skyscrapers crowding the horizon and shooting up around you glimmer so bright they are almost blinding in the sunlight. Millennium Park is beautifully landscaped with flowers and trees. It is a garden sanctuary in the middle of the glass city.

Isabella and Vic in Millennium Park — Our Tour Guides -Millennium Park

HOT TIP: We drove into the City and parked in the Grant Park North Garage. The garage is located right across the street from Millennium Park. The garage entrance is at 25 Michigan Avenue.

HOTTER TIP: Our millennial escorts used the parking app, SpotHero, to find a parking spot and reserve our parking space in advance. You pay when you leave the garage by scanning the app on your smartphone. Never would we have figured that on our own!

Take 5 Minutes to Take In Crown Fountain.

In the mid-afternoon on a sunny second day of summer, Millennium Park was packed with people. The first thing we encountered in Millennium Park, other than the crowds, was Crown Fountain. There are two huge panels souring up out of the concrete. The panels project images of human faces. Interestingly, the collection of faces shown are the images of 1000 Chicago residents. The faces are meant to reflect the varied population of the City. Waterfalls flow down the panels. Fountains sprinkle and spray intermittently from them providing relief from the heat on a hot summer day.

Expect Some Wind In the Chicago Summer, and Bring a Light Jacket.

Honestly, it is hard to imagine ever being too hot in Chicago. It was the end of June when we visited. The temperature was in the 80’s. Yet, true to it’s name, the Windy City was still windy. Warm and cool breezes washed over us as we toured the City. We never felt hot. I kept taking my denim jacket on and off.

Lisa on a Concrete Slab in Chicago — Jacket Off. On a Few Minutes Later!

Spend 10 Minutes for Photo Ops at The Chicago Bean.

The famous Chicago Bean is also known as “Cloud Gate.” You can find your way from Crown Fountain to The Bean quite easily. Follow the crowds. This trip was out of the ordinary for us. We did no research. We had no plan. We just followed Isabella around her new city. Pat had never heard of The Bean.

What is The Bean?

The Bean is a polished stainless steel structure 66 feet long and 33 feet high. Obviously, it is shaped like a bean. The concave part of the bean forms kind of an arch for visitors to walk under. The high shine and shape of The Bean make it like a carnival mirror reflecting distorted images. At the same time, at various vantage points The Beans seems to perfectly reflect the Chicago skyline. The design of The Bean is inspired by liquid mercury.

Skyline reflecting in Chicago Bean — The Bean (or is it the Egg?)!

HOT TIP: Be sure to inspect The Bean from all sides. Each provides a different perspective.

When we were making our way to the Chicago Bean, Pat asked, “What’s The Bean.” When we found it, he started calling it “The Egg.” It stuck. Even after I corrected him several times, eyes rolling, of course, to Pat The Bean is and probably always will be, The Egg.

Expect Crowds When You Visit The Chicago Bean.

Crowds deterred us from getting underneath for the photo op!

Like any other tourist attraction, The Bean was crowded with throngs and groups of people, including a wedding party and a quinceañera! Notwithstanding the number of visitors, people were relatively polite. It was pretty easy to create a space for a photo opp near The Bean. People generously volunteered to snap group photos.

From The Bean Go To Navy Pier.

Distance Approx. 1.4 miles (about 30-45 minute walk).

We are fast walkers. We chose a route from Millennium Park to Navy Pier along North Columbus Drive and over the Chicago River. It took us about 45 minutes to get to Navy Pier due to a short detour. At the N. Colombus bridge there are beautiful views of the river against the back drop of the Trump Tower and the surrounding skyscrapers. There we stopped to take the stairs down to the Riverwalk for a quick sneak peak before proceeding to Navy Pier.

The inviting, lovely blue-green color of the Chicago River were surprising. It reminded me of photos of picturesque mountain lakes on Instagram. On the Riverwalk and at Navy Pier, the vibe was full-on summer celebration. Tour boats crowded with people, yachts, kayaks and all kinds of watercraft cluttered the River. Everyone on the boats clearly was having a boat load of fun! It was disappointing that we didn’t have the time to enjoy a boat tour.

There were a lot of slow walkers along our route to Navy Pier. As we got closer to the Pier the crowds got thicker. The atmosphere grew a little more carnival like. Balloons and bubbles floated through the air and rickshaw drivers hawked their rides. We happened to be at the Navy Pier during the Chi-Soul Fest celebrating Chicago’s legacy of soul. During our 2-hour stop at Navy Pier we saw DJ’s and musicians all along the Pier playing soul music from the 1960’s through today.

You Will Find a Bustle of Activity on Chicago’s Navy Pier.

Approx. Time To Spend – 2 Hours.

Pat and Lisa on Navy Pier with Skyline in backgroun

The energy and activity on Navy Pier were unexpected. I knew nothing about The Pier before we visited. All I anticipated was a long walk-able pier with cool views. What we found on Navy Pier was a pleasant surprise. There are so many interesting facts and things to do on Navy Pier that I could write a whole blog post on that topic alone. You can find more information on the Navy Pier website, of course.

Here are some highlights:

Strolling to the end of Navy Pier you will catch breathtaking views of the Chicago skyline along the shoreline of Lake Michigan.
Navy Pier is just over a half mile long.
The Pier is lined with restaurants, bars, cafes and tourist attractions, like boat excursions, tours, and boat rides.
You will find an amusement park about mid-way up the Pier with various rides including a magnificent, nearly 200-foot Ferris wheel.
Millions of people visit Navy Pier each year.

Be Sure to Walk All the Way to the End of Navy Pier.

We spent about two hours on Navy Pier. You could definitely spend the bulk of a day. The walk down the Pier involves a lot of tourist dodging. This is especially true if you are on a mission to cover as much territory as you can in a short time.

I wouldn’t miss walking the entire length to the end. The crowds seem to thin the farther down the Pier you travel. When you reach the tip, you will be rewarded by an almost 360 degree view of the massive Lake Michigan. It seems like an ocean.

As well, you will enjoy panoramic views of the City. An over-sized anchor rises from the end of the Pier, presenting another selfie spot in this photogenic city. I imagine that this is a perfect spot for a rest stop to take in the views for a bit longer than we did. In the few moments that we did hesitate after snapping a pic, we were impressed by the passing sailboats, a tall ship, and even a Chicago Fire Department boat!

Pat and Lisa on the Anchor at the End of Navy Pier

Secretly, Pat and I are devout fans of all three Chicago TV shows — Chicago Fire, Chicago PD and Chicago Med. We half expected to run into Kelly Severide and Matt Casey somewhere in the City. When passing by a fire station, we were tempted to just wander in (as people do on the show) to find Otis and Mouch sitting around.

Make a Pit Stop on Chicago’s Navy Pier for a Brief Rest and Refreshments.

After almost running from Millennium Park to Navy Pier, and dodging tourists like an NFL quarterback, you are going to need a rest and probably a drink. The running part is a bit of an exaggeration. However, you should definitely refuel to be ready for the rest of the itinerary.

Make A Worthwhile Stop at Offshore Rooftop Bar.

Lisa and Isabella Entering Offshore Rooftop Bar — Entering Offshore – Wow, what a spot!

We fortuitously landed at Offshore. Offshore is a sprawling rooftop bar/restaurant located near the end of the Pier. It was a lucky roll of the dice. We highly recommend Offshore for a snack and a drink, or two. The views of Chicago and Lake Michigan alone are enough to make this a worthy stop. With its all white decor and glass windows, Offshore seems to blend into the lake. It’s a hip spot with huge outdoor areas, fire pits, game areas, pool tables and inside lounging areas. Our photos don’t even begin to do it justice.

Try A Signature Cocktail At OffShore.

View of Chicago from rooftop of Offshore on Navy Pier

Lisa and Isabella Enjoying Signature Drinks at Offshore

It was difficult to chose a cocktail from Offshore’s fun signature drink menu. I was tempted to go with “Secure the Bag” just because it was pretty and cute, which are usually bad reasons for decisions. The fruit punch colored Secure the Bag comes in a pouch with a straw like the Capri Sun juice bags that I used to pack my kids for lunch.

I settled on a more sophisticated margarita. Instead of the traditional margarita glass, it was beautifully presented in a clear lowball glass. It had a distinctly smoky flavor and was adorned with an edible violet flower floating on top.

Portions are Huge on the Offshore Sharing Menu.

The portions on the sharing menu are extra large! All four of us were satisfied with an order of shoestring potato stack (fries) and chicken taquitos. Offshore is trendy, cool and fun. It is the type of place you may find on a swank Caribbean island like St. Barts, or in the New York Hamptons.

What to Do Next in Chicago – Hit The Riverwalk for More Action.

Approx. 1.25 Miles to The Riverwalk. Plan for 1 hour or so.

After recharging on Navy Pier, you’ll be ready for more sightseeing on foot. From Navy Pier, head back toward the Chicago River because your next experience will be the Riverwalk. Find directions here.

quick FACTS ABOUT THE CHICAGO RIVERWALK:

The Riverwalk is 1.25 miles, spanning from Lake Michigan west to Franklin Street.
There are six coves of the Riverwalk–the Marina, the Cove, the River Theatre, the Plaza, the Jetty and the Boardwalk.
There are plenty of places to drink and dine into the evening on the Riverwalk . It may be THE perfect location to enjoy a romantic evening in Chicago.
An emphasis of the Riverwalk is recreational experiences. Among them are kayak tours, River cruises, dinner cruises, party boats, and people watching at the many riverfront establishments.
There are over 500 works of public art on the Riverwalk.

Walking from the Lake Inland, the Excitement Grew.

As we progressed, the venues seemed to become more trendy and definitely more popular and populated. Like Paris, France the seating was situated for the best people watching — facing out toward the promenade. Everywhere the crowds sat looking toward the river, watching the spectacle of island party boats, water taxis, and yachts with bikini clad women dancing to loud music cruise by. Maybe I’m getting old, or maybe it’s a Chicago thing. But, it seemed way too cold to be flaunting a bikini on a boat in the Windy City in late June.

Chicago pedal boat on the River — Parties on the Chicago Pedal
Boats!

We were equally surprised by what we found on the Riverwalk as Navy Pier! I don’t even remember hearing about the Riverwalk on my previous visits to Chicago. I guess it’s been a long time since my last visit. Walking west on the Riverwalk, each bar/restaurant seemed more inviting than the next. There was outdoor seating, games like the ever-popular cornhole, cold drinks, and crowds! You will also find the McCormick Bridgehouse and Chicago River Museum on the Riverwalk. Also like Navy Pier, you could spend a good part of a day exploring the Riverwalk.

Find the Action at the State Street Area on the Chicago Riverwalk.

The area near the State Street bridge seemed to be the most happening. City Winery and Tiny Tapp on the south side of the River looked like a trendy spot to park yourself. It was packed with people who were people-watching, hanging their legs over the edge of the patio.

Sitting at City Winery the view across the River is of extravagant boat slips constructed under two oddly configured towers sticking out amid the sophisticated Chicago skyline. These buildings are formally named the Marina Towers. They are aptly nicknamed the Corn Cob Buildings. That is exactly what they look like – hollowed out and a little bit spooky corn cobs.

The scene on the north side of the River seems like a scene right out of a James Bond movie. You can easily imagine Bond jumping, or falling, out of a window from the sophisticated Smith & Wolensky restaurant hanging over the River. He lands with a perfect roll onto a yacht below that speeds off down the Chicago River out of the sight as well as the grasp of some evil antagonist.

Check Out the Loop Bridges Along the Riverwalk.

We have never been to Venice. But the blue green Chicago River winding through the City under movable bridges looks a little like photos and movies scenes of Venice. All that seems to be missing are the gondolas with singing gondoliers. There are 18 “Chicago Loop Bridges.” You will find these movable bridges over a two-mile stretch in the downtown Chicago loop. At the beginning and end of the boating season all of the bridges are lifted to allow boats to pass from the River to Lake Michigan.

Fear Not! After the Riverwalk, There’s Time for Another Pit Stop.

Pat standing overlooking the Riverwalk — Ready for refreshments!

At the end of your stroll along the Riverwalk, you will be a about half way through your day. You may be slowing down a little by this time. Our stroll along the Riverwalk was a bit more leisurely than our quick paced walk from the Navy Pier. It was warmer as we walked west and away from Lake Michigan. I definitely broke a sweat and worked up a thirst as well as an appetite.

After The Riverwalk, Go To Roof on theWit.

Time to Allot 1-1.5 hours

You next stop is a rooftop bar, called “Roof on theWit.” It is an ultra cool spot to get your swank on. Unexpectedly, the trendy theWit hotel is a Double Tree. It’s located on North State Street in downtown Chicago. When the elevator doors open on the 27th floor, you have arrived at Roof. We had reservations for 6:00 p.m. for drinks. Yes, I said, “reservations for drinks.”

Reservations are Required, Even for Just Drinks at Roof.

Secretly, I thought Isabella, like her mother, had over planned the day with a happy hour reservation. That definitely was not the case. I have since discovered that Roof is internationally acclaimed. In 2018, Roof was rated one of the top three rooftop bars in the world by Travel & Leisure!

We announced our reservation to the hostess, who was playing linebacker at the same time. She was literally blocking people from entering the bar/lounge and inquiring if they had a reservation. Still, I thought, she must mean for dinner. I was wrong again. The hostess escorted us around a decorative panel into the bar area and to our reserved low sofas situated for conversation around a low table. She shooed away the other patrons sitting there, apparently without reservations. And, we sat. Without a reservation, your only option is to stand at the bar.

The Views from Roof Are Incredible.

Floor to ceiling glass at Roof provides sweeping views of the Chicago skyscrapers looming close by. They will take your breath away. A DJ spinning house music tops off the cool, laid-back vibe.

Consider Making Reservations for the Rose Garden.

An outdoor area dubbed “the hangover,” presumably because it “hangs” above the City, is a gorgeous, classy and romantic “rose garden.” To experience the rose´ wine served up in the rose garden along with the glorious views of the City, you will not require rose-colored glasses. You just need special reservations.

The wood-fired pizzas at Roof look very tempting . However, your time is short in this cool City, Chicago. Don’t ruin your dinner appetite at Roof on this visit. You will want to experience one more spot before your nine-hour Chicago adventure ends!

Take a Stroll Down Michigan and North Wabash Avenues.

Distance Approximately .75 miles. Time to Allot-half hour to Walk to 696 North State Street to Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar.

From North State Street we headed to the famed Michigan Avenue for a stroll. It was early Saturday evening. Starting a few blocks north of East Randolph Street, by this time of day it seemed like we missed the best of the Magnificent Mile. There was not much activity or much to see. nWe were running out of time before or dinner reservation. We decided to backtrack toward our almost final destination, Quartino Ristorante & Bar.

North Wabash At Dusk Is Quite Magical.

North Wabash Ave

We took a turn onto North Wabash Avenue, also known as Jeweler’s Row. The Loop, nicknamed “The L”, is the elevated rail system that loops around Chicago’s downtown area. The east branch runs along N. Wabash. Walking along the uncrowded street at dusk as the street lights flickered on was surreal. There were few pedestrians. We barely noticed the rattle of The L. Instead, we were mesmerized by the soft sunlit golden glow of the skyscrapers peeking out at the end of the street. We continued on to 626 N. State Street. You can follow our route here.

Dinner At Quartino is a Solid Choice.

Time to Allot for Dinner-2 hours.

Isabella and Victor on the patio at Quartino

If you decide to follow our route and go to Quartino Ristorante & Wine Bar for dinner, the leisurely stroll from Roof is short in distance and time. Isabella reserved an outdoor table for four for dinner because we love uncomplicated Italian food in a friendly atmosphere. That is exactly what we found.

Quartino’s website describes the place as a bustling downtown Chicago restaurant. “Where wine is cheaper than water,” they say. If you are intent on having dinner at Quartino, you must make reservations! It was packed. Inside the restaurant it was wall to wall people. It was loud and lively. Diners chatted amid the subway tile, worn wood, rustic metal restaurant. Glasses and plates clanked loudly. Sounds from the open kitchen and the bar area joined the cacophony. We lucked out in scoring a table on the outdoor patio area along the street. At that location, the dining experience was a bit more peaceful. Plus, we had front row seats at the scene parading in and out of the joint.

Seriously, the Wine is Cheaper than Water.

It’s true! The wine is cheaper than water at Quartino. A bottle of Pinot Grigio at Quartino cost only eighteen bucks. The restaurant specializes in Italian small plates to share and Neopolitan thin-crust pizza. The small plates are really more like moderately size plates, rather than the huge plates often found an old-fashioned Italian restaurants. The pizza requires a forty-minute wait for cooking. We each had our own plates and were pleasantly satisfied. The prices were relatively inexpensive. Quartino is definitely a delightful and solid choice for an Italian meal in downtown Chicago. If you plan on eating inside, be prepared for a cacophonous atmosphere!

Hands Down Our Favorite Experience was the Willis Tower.

Time to Allot-Approximately 1 Hour.

tip: arriving at willis tower close to 10:00 p.m. there were no crowds. hours vary depending on the time of year.

View from the Ledge, Willis Tower at night

Our bellies were full of bread, pasta, wine and warm chocolate brownies to die for! Our feet and legs were exhausted. We decided to give ourselves a break and opted for an Uber to our final stop — the Skydeck Chicago at Willis Tower. If you chose to walk from Quartino, it’s only about 1.4 miles southwest. The walking route is here.

a few FUN FACTS ABOUT THE WILLIS TOWER

The 2nd tallest building in the western hemisphere.
There are 103 floors in Willis Tower.
On the 103rd floor is a glass viewing platform, known as “The Ledge,” the highest public viewing area in the U.S.
On a clear day you can see 4 states, Illinois, Indiana, Wisconsin and Michigan
The building sways from an average of 6 inches up to 3 feet!

The Elevator Rides to the Ledge Provide Preliminary Thrills.

We purchased Saturday night special tickets in advance, online for $20.00 per person. We arrived at around 10:00 p.m. At that time of evening, there were no lines to the elevator that whisks you to the 27th floor. That first elevetor is an experience in an of itself. The next elevator ride to the top is narrated, providing a brief history and quick facts about the Tower and the elevator. It felt like the elevator was swaying as we ascended. I enjoy amusement park rides. But as we rose, I felt my stomach drop. I watched one of the members of our group turn ghost white. I was concerned that he might faint!

Views from The Ledge Are Remarkable!

At the top, we waited only a short time — maybe 15 minutes — for our turn to step out onto the glass Ledge.

I expected the entire 103rd floor, or at least a large part of it, to have a glass floor. However, there are actually three glass ledges with floor to ceiling windows. The glass Ledges jut out of one side of the top floor of the Willis Tower. Glass floors, walls and a ceiling enable viewing in all directions. While waiting for your turn on the Ledge, video screens hanging on the walls encourage you to take unique photos and tag them @willistower on Instagram. An attendant standing just outside of the glass Ledge ensures that visitors don’t monopolize the view.

I couldn’t help but catch my breath when I stepped out onto the glass. In all of our travels, we had no other experience like this one. It felt as if we were viewing Chicago hanging high above the City in space. I was thrilled that our visit was in the dark of night. The City lights sparkled and twinkled against a black star speckled sky. The skyscrapers were like Christmas trees growing out of the dark. The headlights on cars travelling in one direction formed an illuminated white line in one direction. The tail lights of vehicles travelling in the opposite direction created a lit red streak parallel to the white. We couldn’t get too creative with our pose. We didn’t want to risk the rolling eyes and embarrassment of 20-something Isabella.

Isabella on The Ledge at the Willis Tower

Don’t miss Willis Tower. And, I think that the dramatic view at night makes evening an ideal time to visit. Our visit to the Willis Tower was the whipped cream and the cherry on top of the delectable, delightful day in Chicago.

Chicago is a city much less intense and overwhelming than larger cities like Manhattan. The streets were not jammed with traffic, nor was noise and pollution oppressive. Throughout downtown Chicago you will find huge lush flower pots and places to sit and relax. There is enough to see and do in Chicago to consume several days. Yet, you can cover a lot of ground in just one day.

Now we are legit empty nesters, I think. Our travels will continue, but things seem different. Now it really feels like it’s just the two of us. It is bittersweet. I am sad that Isabella flew so far from our nest. But, I am also happy and proud that she is spreading her wings. I am thrilled that Isabella loves travel and exploration, like we do. Of course, I am also elated to have a reason to frequently visit and explore the Midwest, and especially the lovely city of Chicago.

Should I Visit Nashville? Or is Memphis Better?

United States

I Love Memphis Mural — A Mural We Found Just Off Beale Street

Memphis was on our list of places to visit before Nashville. As we both recall, we were inspired by Anthony Bourdain’s customarily compelling story of Memphis. The only problem is – Bourdain never did a show on Memphis. What? How do we both remember that he did? Anyway, I remember seeing trendy restaurants and cool bars and hearing a story about Memphis being authentic, exciting and off the beaten path.

Nashville Was Our First Choice To Visit.

Pat in front of Welcome to Music City mural at Nashville Visitor Information Center — Nashville Visitor Information Center

Nashville trumped Memphis on our bucket list soon after I became a hardcore new country music fan. After experiencing the blood-pumping, foot-stomping, incredible live music in Music City, we were inspired to search for more of the same in Memphis.

The Nashville v. Memphis Rivarly Is a Thang!

We heard of the rivalry between Nashville and Memphis. Some say it doesn’t exist. Others call it friendly competition. We wanted to see for ourselves and decide which of the two cities is better. We believe the rivalry exists. We are not convinced that it is friendly. To find out which Tennessean City rules, you will have to read on.

Memphis Is Definitely Not Nashville.

Honestly, we came to Memphis expecting Nashville. Nashville it is not. Don’t mistake that for a bad thing. It isn’t in our view. Nashville is polished, shiny and mainstream. Memphis is quirky, retro and colorful. Nashville is Music City. Back to Anthony Bourdain, he did a show on Nashville (not Memphis). It ended up being about music and not food.

Beale Street in Memphis
The Famous Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge on Music Row in Nahsville

Memphis is music, but so much more. Memphis is history, culture, music, art and food.
Memphis gets an undeserved bad rap. A typical reaction when telling others we were travelling to Memphis was: “OOOhh. Isn’t it dangerous there?” or “Ugh, I heard it’s seedy and dirty.” Memphis is none of these. But, Memphis also is not mainstream.

Memphis is Quirky, Retro and Colorful, Kind of Like Us!

Peoples Pineapple Mural — **Doesn’t he look like a spider? Weird.**

Memphis is like your favorite eccentric uncle. You know who I’m talking about. He is the old guy clad in an outlandish outfit, including the hat he’s had since the 1960’s. But somehow he still seems stylish and even kind of cool. He’s the guy that welcomes you with a warm wide smile, open arms and a corny joke. He loves fun, yet has a serious side. He can sometimes stun you into sudden reflection with his stories of tougher times. That is Memphis!

Everyone we met in Memphis was warm and friendly. Most people asked why we came to Memphis. Our honest response was, “We went to Nashville for New Year’s Eve and wanted to check out Memphis.” A common Memphian reply was, “They talk trash about us in Nashville.”

It Would Be a Sin to Visit Memphis and Skip Graceland.

The Piano Room in Graceland — Piano Room in Graceland

The entrance to Elvis’ Graceland Mansion in Memphis

Our first stop after landing in Memphis was Graceland. Why, you may ask? We needed a place to store our luggage for the day. Our apartment rental through Stay Alfred did not have luggage storage. Stay Alfred was making no accommodation for us to store our bags before the 3:00 p.m. check-in time. Plus, going to Memphis without visiting Graceland is like going to Rome and not visiting the Vatican. It seems sacrilegious.

Go to Memphis Because Elvis is Alive in Memphis!

It’s not weird that Memphis loves Elvis. Who doesn’t love Elvis? However, what was unexpected is the feeling that Elvis still lives in Memphis. Almost every where you go in Memphis there is evidence that Elvis is alive beyond the statues, photos, and museums.

You Will Find the Soul of Elvis Every Where You Visit in Memphis.

Visit Sun Studio in Memphis where Elvis recorded his first record. You can feel Elvis all around you. At the juke joints on Beale Street, you will find performers who not only cover Elvis tunes, but resemble Elvis not in a cheesy, but a modern way.

Around town you will find the Lansky Bros. Clothing stores selling contemporary versions of Elvis attire. Almost everyone speaks reverently of Elvis. Almost everyone you meet seems to have a tidbit of information about the King that you may never have

Shopping at Lansky
Who Doen’t Need a Gold Sequin Suit?

Kiss the Wall on A Visit to The King’s Bedroom in Downtown Memphis.

For example, on a tour of the City we learned that Graceland isn’t the only former residence of Elvis that you can visit in Memphis. Before Elvis bought Graceland, the Presley family lived in the City of Memphis in public housing.

Graffiti Wall Outside of Graceland Mansion

From September 1949 to January 1953, Elvis Presley and his parents, Gladys and Vernon, lived at 185 Winchester, Apartment 328, in Lauderdale Courts. The apartment has been revived to reflect the life and times of Vernon, Gladys and young Elvis in the early 1950’s.

Today, you can actually book the Presley family apartment for your stay in Memphis. In fact, word has it that you can even sleep in the very bedroom where Elvis Presley laid his head! If you do, don’t forget to bring a fresh tube of lipstick. Apparently, it is customary to pay homage to the beloved King by kissing the wall, leaving a lipstick imprint of your lips. To me, that sounds just plain gross.

Visit Memphis to Experience Elvis’ Legacy.

Honestly, I expected Memphis, or at least Graceland, to be infested with Elvis look-alikes. For sure, I thought there would be swarms of guys with bad died black hair coifed into a pompadour wearing flashy bellbottoms and white boots. Not at all. Instead of Elvis wannabes, we found the energy and spirit of Elvis alive throughout this interesting City.

Memphis rekindled our love for Elvis. Back home we found ourselves blasting and dancing to old favorite Elvis songs. In our excitement, we created a cool video photo collection of our trip to post on Instagram and Facebook to the song Burning Love. But then the issue of copyright infringement dawned upon us. Oops! The experience of Elvis and his legacy is one of the unique reasons to visit Memphis.

Lisa and Pat in the Arcade Diner in Memphis, Tennessee — The Arcade Diner – Elvis’ Favorite in Memphis

There are definitely many music legends from Nashville. But, we did not encounter the living spirit of a single one in Nashville in the way that we found Elvis alive in Memphis.

Are you Ducking Kidding Me?

Have you ever heard of the Peabody Ducks? Apparently, I have lived under a mushroom for the past fifty-plus years. The Peabody Ducks are literally world famous. Who would have known? I never heard of these ducks until we started researching our trip to Memphis. In a word, I would describe the Peabody Duck phenomenon as bizarre.

Fountain in the Lobby of the Peabody Hotel In Memphis — Don’t Feed the Royal Ducks!

The Royal Marching Ducks Live at the Peabody Hotel in Downtown Memphis.

You can find the ducks downtown at the Peabody Hotel on the corner of Main and Monroe Streets, not far from the famous Beale Street. The Peabody Hotel is a grand throwback to the wealth and extravagance of the late 1800’s. The grandiose two-floor lobby of the Peabody is intricately carved mahogany, marble, brass, leather and brocade. In front of the lobby bar, a towering cherub fountain adorned with a huge elaborate bouquet of colorful fresh flowers anchors the lobby. The faint scent of orange blossoms floats through the air.

Here’s the really odd part. Five ducks reside in a Royal Duck Palace on the rooftop of the Peabody Hotel. I’m serious. Every day, twice a day, the ducks “march.” At 11:00 a.m. daily, the ducks descend from the penthouse palace to the lobby via elevator. The ducks are accompanied by The Duckmaster. Of course, The Duckmaster is dressed in a circus ringmaster-type suit and carries a gold duck-topped cane.

Go to the Peabody Hotel in Memphis for Pomp and Circumstance!

At 11:00 a.m. the elevator doors open. Dramatically, The Duckmaster and the Peabody Ducks march to the tune of John Phillip Sousa’s “King Cotton March” across a red carpet through the lobby until they reach the lobby fountain. At the fountain, The Duckmaster steps aside, and the ducks climb a short ramp into the water to swim on display for the day.

The elaborate fanfare repeats at 5:00 p.m. every day when the ducks exit the fountain, walk across the red carpet and into the elevator. Again, with pomp and circumstance they are escorted by The Duckmaster back to the rooftop Royal Duck Palace.

Arrive Early to See the Peabody Ducks March!

If all of that weren’t odd enough, the red carpet is roped off like it’s the Academy Awards. People from all over the world anxiously arrive an hour or more before the ritual to glimpse the ducks as if they were there vying for the chance to meet a world renowned celebrity. Getting there forty-five minutes before the show was not early enough for a front row spot along the rope. As a result, I was forced to stand a few bodies back from the rope, while Pat held the camera high above our heads anxiously hoping to snap the perfect Insta-pic of the red-carpet-marching famous ducks.

Crowds to see the Peabody Ducks march at the Peabody Hotel in Memphis — Can you see the people hanging over the balcony to glimpse the ducks?

At only 5’2”, I was jostled and pushed by eager onlookers, but stood my ground peeking through the spaces between the people in front of me. I managed to catch a flash of the ducks waddling by the crowd. “Are you ducking kidding me,” I thought. Seriously, I could not believe that we all were there fighting the crowd to see ducks. Just ducks. They look like any ole duck you see outside. But these ducks, they waddle and flap on a red carpet!

Visit the Peabody for a Drink. Skip the Wacky Ducks.

Lobby of the Peabody Hotel in Memphis Tennessee — Lobby of the Peabody Hotel ***after*** the Duck March

The Peabody Hotel is a gorgeous place to stop for a drink. The rooftop party is supposed to be a blast. The Peabody Ducks are, well, sort of gimmicky. It is beyond me why the marching ducks are a world famous tourist attraction.

Once There Were the Drunken Goats on Memphis’ Beale Street.

Silkey O'Sullivans Patio on Beale Street in downtown Memphis — Visit the Drunken Goats at Silky O’Sullivans

Once upon a time the drunken goats lived at Silky O’Sullivan’s on Beale Street. Despite the Irish name, the bar claims that Silky O’Sullivan was known as the “Father of Barbecue.” Okay, that alone may not be so odd. However, Silky’s is also home to the drunken goats. Yes, you read that correctly. The goats live in a pen in the outdoor patio at Silky’s. Apparently, formerly it was a fun Memphian pass time to get the goats drunk on beer and watch them climb their goat tower. Silky’s stopped feeding the goats beer after PETA objected. Nonetheless, the goats still hang out and watch the crowd at Silky’s. I wouldn’t suggest going to Silky’s just to see the goats. They actually seem kind of sad lurking in the shadows of the patio bar area. On a sunny afternoon, however, Silky’s huge outdoor patio is a beautiful and happening spot for refreshments.

Visit Nashville If You Like Normal.

By contrast, we didn’t encounter any oddities in Nashville. To us, Nashville is like the perfectly staged shows you find all along Music Row. Memphis’ eccentricity, like that favorite uncle, is not only endearing, but gives Memphis character and makes it feel real.

Visit Memphis Because It Rocks!

Out of Memphis has come some incredible music including gospel, blues, jazz, soul, and rhythm and blues. Memphis is the birthplace of Rock N’ Roll. Memphis gave the world musical greats like Elvis, Muddy Waters, B.B. King, and Justin Timberlake.

If You’re Looking for Laid Back, Go To Beale Street in Downtown Memphis on a Thursday Afternoon.

From a distance, Beale Street looks similar to Nashville’s Music row. It spans several blocks and is lined with clubs, restaurants, and shops on both sides of the street. The street is closed to vehicular traffic. Iconic neon signs call out the name of the street as well as the names of the establishments along the way. Huge painted replicas of B.B. King’s legendary Lucille-style guitars standing ten feet tall are scattered along the sidewalk.

Large Replica of BB King's Guitar — BB’s Lucille

Walking down Beale Street in the afternoon, we were struck by how quiet it was. The clubs and restaurants were open. Unlike Nashville, however, there were no crowds on the sidewalks; there was no music blaring out into the street. Beale Street’s vibe is mellow, more reflective of the mood of the blues music for which is it famous.

Visit Nashville for Honky Tonks. Go To Memphis For Juke Joints.

Instead of the honky tonks we found in Nashville, Beale Street is lined with juke joints. Historically, juke joints were described as law-breaking, bawdy, rag-tag shacks that could only be found by word of mouth. The juke joints on Beale Street are no secret. There were hawkers scattered along the sidewalk gently coaxing patrons into to their joints with the promise of live music.

Jerry Lawler's Joint — Jerry Lawler’s Bar

We didn’t find any fancy new celebrity-owned bars on Beale Street. In Nashville it seem liked there was one every few feet. The first place we wandered into on Beale Street, however, was celebrity-owned. Oddly enough, our first stop was “The King Jerry Lawler’s Memphis BBQ Company,” owned by the professional wrestler.

The connection between Lawler and Memphis barbecue was not clear. I have since learned that Lawler was born in Memphis and ran for mayor of Memphis in 1999. The place was our first glimpse of the quirkiness of Memphis. The worn bar decorated with World Wrestling Entertainment memorabilia and posters serves up Memphis barbecue with a side of rhythm and blues. There was no need to push through a crowd to get a drink. There were only a few patrons inside listening to the solo musician singing the blues. The atmosphere was unhurried with an undertone of sadness. We found this consistently throughout many of the venues we visited on Beale Street.

Visit Nashville for Top Notch Music. Visit Memphis for Music and More.

The music we heard in Nashville was consistently top-notch and mostly country. Although we definitely encountered rock and blues too. In Memphis we found that the quality of music varied as did the genre. It was, however, no less fun.

In Memphis You Can’t Resist Boogieing to the Rockabilly Beat or Jamming with a Rock Band.

We were cajoled into Club Handy by a mediocre senior citizen singer of a blues band who was actively recruiting fans from the street into the open venue. He was successful not only in garnering patrons, but in getting them all to dance.

We had a blast dancing to the blues at Club Handy on Beale Street!

We were highly entertained by talented rockabilly artist, Brad Birkedahl, at the more classic Blues City Café. Brad’s energy electrified the crowded bar. We rocked out until the morning hours to millennial rock band at Tin Roof. We stood back a bit while the younger crowd converged by the raised stage dancing and arm waving. We certainly didn’t want to get involved in a mosh pit or anything of that sort. Is that still a thing?

At Tin Roof
Brad Birkedahl

Jerry Lee Lewis' Joint — Jerry Lee Lewis’ Joint

We were nearly lulled to sleep by an old style film continuously running an interview and the music of Jerry Lee Lewis at his namesake Cafe and Honky Tonk. Because it was afternoon, the bartender excused us from the two-drink minimum.

Make the Trip to Memphis For the Blues.

We were enticed into The Rum Boogie Cafe, where guitars of the famous hang over the stage, by the compelling blues music of Eric Hughes Band. The band’s soulful music touched our souls so deeply that we purchased a CD.

Visit Nashville for the Best Live Music.

The music in Nashville was hands down some of the best live music we’ve ever heard. Nashville music made us sing and compelled us to dance. The music in Memphis, like the town itself, reaches deep into your soul. It can make laugh. It may make you cry. It brings back sweet memories. And, it brings to life the rich past that makes Memphis so unique.

Memphis is Colorful! Visit for the art.

We came across some street art while visiting Nashville. However, in Memphis there seem to be countless murals and works of art throughout the downtown areas. I think we lost count at 25! The massive murals not only adorn walls, but phone boxes and various other structures and fixtures in the City.

The Artery in Barboro Alley (east and west of Main) showcases several works of art. We loved searching for these murals with the Downtown Memphis Mural Guide we found online. In addition to the works in the Artery, the South Main Mosaic Artwalk is a collection of eight temporary public art installations throughout the South Main neighborhood featuring the works of local artists. It includes murals, sculptures and a street piano.

Memphis seems to be in the midst of a downtown revival. Old buildings, like the famous Hotel Chisca, where DJ Dewey Phillips debuted Elvis’ first recording of “That’s Alright Mama,” have been renovated into trendy apartments and restaurants.

If You Go To Memphis, Rockabilly Rides is Rad!

We arranged for a personal tour of Memphis with Rockabilly Rides. Brandon Cunning drove us around Memphis in a Tiffany Blue Color 1955 Plymouth Belvedere telling us about the city’s history and neighborhoods. It was rad! Brandon told us that there is a waiting list to live in downtown Memphis.

For Cool Vibes, Tour the Memphis South Main Street Area.

For $1.00 you can ride the trolley that runs up and down Main Street along the Main Street Rail Line. We wished that we had more time to spend in the South Main area. In this part of Memphis, some of the oldest haunts, Elvis’ favorite Arcade diner, Ernestine and Hazels and the Green Beetle, meld with trendy, new upscale and romantic restaurants like Catherine and Mary’s and The Majestic Grille.

Memphis Is Full of History You Must See.

Memphis is city living partially in the shadow of a past that is both tragic and exciting. There is a gritty and slightly melancholy quality to Memphis. The City is bound to its rich history.

Mural outside the National Civil Rights Museum

Memphis was a major slave market. It suffered yellow fever epidemics decimating its population and leading to the City’s bankruptcy. Memphis was at the center of the Civil Rights Movement. It is the location of Dr. Martin Luther King’s assassination.

Lorraine Hotel houses the National Civil Rights Museum
The wreath marks the location of MLK’s assassination

The vestiges of these tragedies are evident throughout the City and perhaps most obviously in the National Civil Rights Museum. The museum is built into the Lorraine Motel, the site of Martin Luther King’s death on April 4, 1968. You can spend an hour or days in the museum trying to absorb the enormity and significance of Memphis’ past.

I Am Man Exhibit at the Lorraine Hotel Museum

Driving to Us Exhibit at the Civil Rights Museum

The weight of its history did not seem to be hanging over Nashville as it is Memphis.

Memphis Thrives Despite Its History.

Memphis Rocks Mural — I told you Memphis Rocks!

Memphis seems like one of those comeback story movies that everyone loves. Against the bad press and the undeserved bad reputation, Memphis is alive. Memphis continues to evolve. Memphis seems to be reinventing itself.

If You Know Bourdain, Know that He Would Have Loved A Trip to Memphis.

I’ll end where I began – with Bourdain. I read a quote online. This is not an actual Bourdain quote. But journalist Mark Fleischer’s prediction of what Bourdain would have said about Memphis if he actually had produced a show about the town. “This is a town,” he might have said, “that loves and loathes its rich, bawdy past. It has the soul of a slave – silently defiant, struggling with old shackles, refusing to die, hopeful for liberty and redemption.” Mark Fleischer, publisher of StoryBoard Memphis.

There is No Comparison Between Nashville and Memphis.

We love you Nashville. But, honestly, there is no comparison between Memphis and Nashville.

A Stolen Kiss on a bridge over the Mississippi River

The Top Nine Reasons to Visit Great Exuma in the Bahamas

Bahamas, Destinations

Lisa and Patrick in the water at low tide on Coco Plum Beach in the Bahamas — Coco Plum Beach at Low Tide

Exuma has been on my list of beach destinations for some time. I first learned of the island several years ago from a friend who had visited. When she told me she went to Exuma, at first I was confused. Was she making some reference to Zoom Tan, a local tanning salon, or the skin condition, eczema? My friend explained that the Exumas are a collection of islands and cays in the lower half of the Bahamas. She described islands surrounded by crystal blue and green waters, white sand beaches, and an uncrowded, undeveloped, laid back atmosphere.

Upon a quick Google search, I was immediately drawn by the images of perfect unspoiled beaches that popped up. And, to be honest — I just like the name. I am easily amused and enjoy messing with people. I got a kick out of the baffled looks and crinkled brows when I told people we were traveling to Exuma.
Last year, after two trips to Europe in six weeks (while both still working more than full time as lawyers), we were both ready for some laid back beach time. As always, Lisa was trip-planning and asked where I wanted to go. I remembered Exuma!

What the Heck is Exuma Anyway?

For context, let me give you some background before I tell you the reasons you should visit Exuma. “The Exumas,” as they are properly called, are located 35 miles southeast of the more well-known Nassau. They are a chain of 365 islands and cays, configured into three major areas – Great Exuma, Little Exuma and the Exuma cays. According to their Minister of Tourism and Aviation, Dionisio D’Aguilar, “The sapphire blue waters of Exuma have wowed astronauts from space who declared them to be the clearest and most beautiful in the world.” I believe it! The spectrum of blue and greenish hues of the waters engulfing the Exumas ranges from sapphire to emerald turquoise to deep cerulean. The colors of the ocean are like none we’ve seen before.

Georgetown is the Capital of Great Exuma

We stayed on Great Exuma, which is 37 miles long and narrow in width. There is a single main road, Queen D’Highway, spanning the length of the island. Georgetown, located near the southern end, is the capital and the largest town. On our first drive through Georgetown, it seemed like I must have blinked and missed what I expected to be a larger place. There is no obvious downtown are in Georgetown. A handful of establishments are scattered around the relatively small area around Lake Victoria, along with an eclectic mix of government buildings, businesses, retail shops and food stores. It is not the kind of town where you park and walk a main street to visit shops and restaurants. In fact, there was not much tourist shopping at all. We found one boutique in town and an open air collection of vendors selling the usual tourist junk – t-shirts, key chains, jewelry, and such.

Open Air Market In Georgetown, Great Exuma

A boat named "Regret" displayed in Georgetown

While Georgetown itself is unlikely to be the reason to visit Exuma, there are several reasons why you should. Here they are:

1. The Number 1 Reason to Visit Exuma is Incredible Beaches

We visited Great Exuma during the last week in February. The locals call this time of year the busy season. Yet, there were few people at many of the places we visited. Most of the beaches were sprinkled with only a scattering of small groups of people or couples here and there. Some of the beaches were completed deserted. Each beach is more beautiful than the next.

You Can Walk for Miles in Solitude on Three Sisters Beach

We rented Rayann’s Beach House through Home Away on Three Sisters beach. The beach is named after the three large rock formations in the water just off the shore. Located just about in the middle of the length of the island, Three Sisters beach is a perfect home base for exploring Great Exuma. The beach and the view from our vacation rental were so beautiful that we could have been perfectly happy just parking ourselves there during our entire visit.

Rocks on Three Sisters Beach Great Exuma

Three sisters beach

Several mornings we walked the beach for miles and saw no life except the local beach dog who, invited or not, tagged along with us each day. There are stretches of Three Sisters beach where there are no houses or any other buildings. At points, the beach feels deserted. There is nothing but huge coral rocks, green brush, and powdery white sand bathed by the frothy surf. The surf is mild to moderate. We aren’t surfers, but the waves did not appear large enough for surfing. At times, the waves were definitely strong enough to knock you over if you were not paying attention. Notwithstanding the beauty and tranquility of Three Sisters Beach right in our own back yard, adventure got the best of us! We were compelled to find the best beach on the island.

Coco Plum Beach is an Instagrammer’s Dream

Our townhouse came with a list and directions to the “best beaches,” which included Coco Plum Beach. In addition, according our prior research, Coco Plum is at the top of the list. We agree. When visiting Great Exuma you must make the trip to Coco Plum Beach on the north end of the island. This beach is relatively easy to find. Drive north on Queen D’Highway. In between the towns of Steventon and Rolleville you can access the beach via a gravel road that shoots off perpendicular to the main road and leads directly to the coast. Signs directing you to turn off were fairly easy to spot when we were there.

Coco Plum is a protected beach with no waves. It is simply breathtaking. The water is crystal clear, ever-changing shades of turquoise and blue. At times the ocean looked almost lavender. Check the tide schedule, and plan to be there at low tide when the pink and cream-colored sand bars pop up out of the ocean. You can walk several hundred yards into water only two feet deep, or less. You may even find a sand dollar or two, a starfish, or a conch shell.

treasures on Coco plum beach at low tide

A Conch Shell that we found on Coco Plum Beach

A starfish on Coco Plum Beach on Little Exuma

Ocean Swing on Coco Plum Beach Exuma Bahamas — Enjoying the Ocean Swings at Coco Plum Beach

The first thing we noticed on arrival at Coco Plum Beach was a rustic, wood swing structure built in the water about 30 feet off shore. It looked exactly like all of those romantic photos of ocean swings with a beautiful young woman swinging with her long hair flowing behind her that are posted all over Instagram. And, there was no one else around! Jackpot – the perfect photo op for our blog and our @Chameleons With Carry Ons Instagram account. Excited by our find, Lisa rushed down the beach and waded into the water heading straight to the swing like a toddler at the playground. What came next was just perfect.

Every Picture Tells A Story, But Maybe Not the Whole Thing

Our efforts to mount the swings for the photo op would provide excellent material for a Saturday Night Live skit. The swings were over Lisa’s head. But, that wasn’t stopping her. Laughing and grunting at the same time, she made several attempts to pull her entire body weight up onto the swing using the strength of her skinny little arms. It didn’t work. In a comical, but perhaps sad beginning of the parent-child role reversal, our 23 -year-old son stood on the shore watching for a few moments before wading out into the water to lift his mother onto the ocean swing.

The Laurel and Hardy routine continued when I mounted the other swing (after several unsuccessful attempts that were no more graceful than Lisa’s). Laughing, again, and standing on the swing Lisa tried reaching for my hand. We were too far apart to comfortably hold hands for the photo. I was sure she was going to catapult into the water below. To my surprise, she didn’t.

QUITE THE COMEDIC SCENE TRYING TO SET UP THE INSTA PHOTO

For our encore — we couldn’t get the swings to swing more than a few feet in each direction. We looked like two toddlers on a swing set who were just learning how to “pump.” After all that, we ended up with a few great pics and an even better story! We have the blooper videos and photos for laughs, and then there were the ones “for show” on Insta (isn’t that what it’s all about?).

Driving on Exuma is an Adventure

Lisa and Pat enjoying Beers on Jolly Hall — Enjoying some Kaliks on Jolly Hall

Finding Jolly Hall Beach was a bit of a challenge. Queen D’Highway is the only road on Great Exuma with a name. There are other roads on the island with varying degrees of paving, but no names or designations. Similarly, most of the beaches are unnamed. Those that do have names usually have no obvious signage to help in identifying the location. The locals give driving directions by reference to landmarks like difficult to spot signs hammered to trees and garbage receptacles along the roadway. That makes beach hunting a bit of a treasure hunt. Arm yourself with a sense of adventure along with a sense of humor and just enjoy the ride. The hunt is worth the reward.

If you’re lucky, the directions to the beach you are looking for may refer to a local establishment along the main road, which may or may not make your destination easier to find. To add to the lack of signage, you must remember to “Stay left!” In the Exumas, you drive on the left side of the road. Plus, the steering wheel in our rental car was on the right side, and for some inexplicable reason the GPS was in Japanese – no joke!

Best to get out your binoculars when looking for beach access signs

We drove up and down Queen D’Highway a couple of times in the area of Jolly Hall Beach until we eventually spied the small beach access sign on the east side of the highway. To access the beach, park along the side of the road by the beach access sign, near the trash receptacle, on Queens Highway and walk down the path. Walking down the sand path through the brush and tropical plants, you reach a clearing and catch the view of the beach. At that point, it seems like you hear a choir of angels, or someone with they’re arms out and palms up saying, “Ta daaa!” It’s heavenly. You have the option of venturing left or right from the path onto the beach. In each direction, the beach spans approximately a quarter mile.

Entering Jolly Hall Beach on Great Exuma — Entrance to Jolly Hall Beach

Finding Jolly Hall Beach Was a Treasure Hunt

Jolly Hall is a cove beach sheltered by Stocking Island. The beach is about a mile north of Georgetown. When were there a few sail boats were anchored in the cove adding interest to the already picturesque landscape. At Jolly Hall Beach the ocean gently ebbs and flows on the shore. There are no waves. You can walk several feet into the turquoise-blue-emerald sea.

There are no amenities on Jolly Hall Beach. We set up our blanket, chairs and a cooler and enjoyed Lisa’s favorite beach lunch – peanut butter and jelly sandwiches with potato chips and a can of beer. I’m not kidding. We spent a lazy afternoon on Jolly Hall beach reading and watching the ocean with only a few other people in the distance. The only reason we left Jolly Hall was to check out happy hour at Splash Bar at Hideaways Palm Bay, just south down the road.

How to Get to Tropic of Cancer Beach

Tropic of Cancer Beach on Little Exuma, Bahamas

There is some hype around Tropic Cancer Beach. I guess it is cool to be able to say you visited a beach through which the Tropic of Cancer passes. Lisa wasn’t sure she wanted to make the 45 minute drive there. Our neighbor at our townhouse reported that he had been there the day before and that it was “crowded.” Uncharacteristically, since she’s the boss, I insisted that we go.

From Georgetown, head south on Queens Highway. Follow the small bridge, called “The Ferry,” and follow the signs to Tropic of Cancer Beach. The roads get rougher as you get closer.

Tropic Cancer Beach is Not Beach is Not All that it’s Cracked Up to Be

The beach wasn’t “crowded” in the usual sense of the word. However, there were more people on Tropic of Cancer Beach than any other beach we visited on the island. It is a long expansive white sand beach, spanning about a mile. Upon entry you pass through a rough wooden shack selling drinks and snacks and through a threshold under a hand painted wood sign declaring, “Tropic of Cancer Beach.” There are no other services or establishments on the beach.

Tropic of Cancer Beach was probably our least favorite of those we visited. It is a lovely beach, but not the desolate destination we came to expect on Exuma. The reason to visit this beach is for the novelty of being able to say you were on the Tropic of Cancer.

Check out Santanna’s Bar and Grille

After visiting Tropic of Cancer Beach head south on the main road for about five minutes until you get to Santanna’s Bar and Grille. Santanna’s is famous because Johnny Dep allegedly hung out there during the filming of the Pirates of the Caribbean II and III. It’s colorful little outdoor spot to grab a cold drink and something off the grill. Bring a hat, sticker or something to stick on the wall or to hang above the bar and leave your mark.

The Bar at Santanna’s
Santanna’s Deck

You Can Spend the Day at a Bar and On the Beach

There are too many beaches on Great Exuma to describe in this post. Some of the main bar-restaurants on the island, like Shoreline Restaurant, Big D’s Conch Spot, and Exuma Point Bar and Grille, have their own beaches often with beach chairs, picnic tables and hammocks. At these places you can laze the day away with food and drink just steps away. Not a single restaurant that we visited was busy.

Beach at Big D's Conch Spot, Great Exuma

Lisa and Pat on the dock at Exuma Point Bar and Grille

Find Your Perfect Beach

To find other unnamed secluded beaches visit Google Earth or Google Maps satellite view. Look up and down the island for the white beaches, and you will see the paths from the main road. It may be a journey finding the beach you are looking for, but trust me, it is well worth the effort!

2. The Exumian People Are A Very Fine Reason to Visit Exuma

The Exumians are some of the most congenial people we have met in our travels. Everywhere we went on Exuma we felt welcome. The people seemed genuinely happy to talk and offer up information. Don’t miss the opportunity to meet the locals.

One of our favorite things to do when travelling is to try to really dig into the local flavor. After a day at the beach, and a stop at Splash Beach Bar for a $12 dollar drink, we pulled into the collection of huts on the water. We ventured to the last shed where a few locals were hanging out at the open air bar. We found just we were looking for.

Lisa and Pat enjoying cocktails at Splash Bar at Hideaways

Lisa and Pat Relaxing at Splay Bar, Hideways Exuma

Just north of Georgetown is a group of local bars and open air food joints housed in a collection of shacks. There is a big rusty tug boat and two barges rusting into the sand and water in the little bay area. Shirley’s Seafood is in the middle. We didn’t get to Shirley’s, but the word is that Shirley’s very good.

Conch shells piled up on the beach — Mountains of conch shells on the bay left from all of the delicious, fresh conch salad.

Go Where the Locals Hang

A collection of local bars and restaurants on Exuma — A collection of local bars and restaurants on just north of Georgetown

We ventured to the last shed where a few locals were hanging out at the open air bar. We found just we were looking for. We had the pleasure of meeting local resident experts on many things, Wellington McPhee and Curtis Glass. These two old friends in their sixties politely argued, corrected each other and made fun of each other the entire time. They were friendly, charming and informative. They told us of their U.S .travels and were interested in our travels. We shared drinks and stories. A few drinks in, we were bantering back and forth right along with them. This is authentic Exuma! Make a stop where the locals are at the bars and restaurants just north outside of Georgetown near Shirley’s.

Barraterre

Tree Art at Fisherman's Inn in Barre Terre on Exuma — Tree Art at Fisherman’s Inn in Barre Terre on Exuma

If you make the trip to Coco Plum Beach, another local, and very rustic and interesting spot is Norman Lloyd’s Fisherman’s Inn in Barraterre. When you run out of road driving north on Exuma, you are in Barraterre. There is not much there except a small convenience store in the Lloyd house, a town dock and an open air gift shop. Up on the hill with tremendous views you will find the Fisherman’s Inn. It’s a rough place, kind of messy, but you will be welcomed and entertained by proprietor, Norman Lloyd. Mr. Lloyd charms the money right out of your wallet for a few more drinks than you may have intended on with his humor and stories. I enjoyed the cold Kalik beer on the very hot afternoon of our visit. I think the shots of Cannonball whiskey Norman insisted we take with him were on the house. We met a couple from Michigan at the Fisherman’s Inn. They have been traveling to Exuma for years. According to this couple, Norman is the best chef on the island. He cooks meals to order. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the opportunity to test Mr. Lloyd’s skills. When you go be sure to say, “hello” to Midnight, Norman’s four-legged friend.

Signs from around the world in front of Chat N' Chill Bar — Entrance to Chat N’ Chill

3. Chat N’ Chill Bar On Stocking Island Is Worth a Trip, Or Two

Don’t pass up a visit to the famous Chat N’ Chill on Stocking Island. To get there take a five minute water taxi ride from the government docks in Georgetown to Stocking Island. If you can, go on a Sunday for the pig roast barbecue. Water taxis, boats and rubber dinghies from the sail boats moored between the two islands just skid up on the Chat N’ Chill beach. According to their website, these are the many things to do at Chat N’ Chill. The list is quite accurate. Here it is:

Enjoy crystal clear shallow water that’s excellent for families with small children
Feed and swim with the friendly stingrays
Swim with Nicky and Noodle, Exuma’s friendly dolphins
Sunbathe on powder-fine white sand beach
Snorkel (bring your own gear)
Play Volleyball
Relax in the shade of the Casuarina Grove…join a game of dominoes or bridge
Eat conch salad, learn how it’s made and experience the Out Island Lifestyle
Take nature walk to the Atlantic coastal side of Stocking Island and see 90 foot sand dunes.
Trek up to highest point on Stocking Island, The Beacon, to glimpse a breathtaking aerial view of Stocking Island and Elizabeth Harbor
See Jacques Cousteau’s underwater mystery cave

It’s Definitely Chill at Chat N’ Chill

Chat N’ Chill is a funky shack of a place with hats, t-shirts, stickers, business cards, bathing suit tops (and one bottom) and graffiti adorning the walls. You can tack whatever personal item you may wish to leave as a testament to your journey on the wall, if you can find a place, that is.

chat n’ chill bar

On Sundays during the Chat N’ Chill pig roast, the bar may be crowded. Bernice, Shennie and the other bartenders hustle to keep the cold drinks coming. Some patience may be necessary, however. In fact, when you are visiting Exuma it is good to keep in mind that you are on island time. Some good advice from our hosts:

Everyone is on island time so remember EVERYTHING takes a lot longer here. Go earlier than normal for meals and plan on waiting 30 minutes to an hour for your food. Also, take lots of cash with you. Most restaurants are cash only.”
Advice from Mildred and Isadore Lloyd

The Drinks are Delectable at Chat N’ Chill

The huge frozen daiquiris and the Bahama Mamas are worth the $10.00. The pig barbecue is good, but they grab you at $20.00 for a plate of food. To be honest, we were’t overwhelmed by the barbecue.

Chat N Chill Conch Bar on Stocking Island — Chat N’ Chill Conch Shack

Definitely Try the Fresh Conch Salad

The Conch Shack right on Chat N’ Chill beach is the place to go fresh conch salad. The salads are made to order from conch pulled right out of the ocean in front of the shack. If you have never tried conch salad you must try it, but only get one because they are large. As an added bonus, the conch salad chef hands out fresh scraps conch to feed the stingrays that glide through the ocean near the shore. Stand or sit in ankle deep water, and the stingrays will brush up against you. It was pretty cool to feed the stingrays and even cooler to touch them. They feel like velvet.

A young boat in front of the Conch Shack at Chat N' Chill on Stocking Island

Lisa Standing in the water at the beach a Chat N Chill

Lisa Relaxing in a hammock at Chat N Chill

On the beach at Chat N’ Chill there are volleyball nets, hammocks, and other assorted games. The Sunday barbecue at Chat N’ Chill was not the wild party atmosphere we expected. There was music playing from the shack. The barbecue is served from the deck. Families gathered at picnic tables in the shade on the beach.

Chat N Chill Game Cornhole game on the beach

We enjoyed Chat N’ Chill so much that we returned for a second visit during our one-week stay on Great Exuma. Both times we stayed for hours.

Take a Water Taxi from Georgetown to Chat N’ Chill

A-1 Water Taxi to Chat N Chill on Stocking Island — A-1 Water Taxi to Chat N Chill

When we were on Exuma were two water taxis running to Chat N’ Chill , Elvis’ and A-1 Water Taxi A-1 is run by the ever charming Elton, better known as “J.J.” J.J. is very friendly and knowledgeable. If you are under forty, at the end of the five minute boat ride you will probably exchange Instagram handles with J.J.. Your $15.00 round trip water taxi fare includes a photo with him!

4. Rake and Scrape Is A Riot

If you are looking to burn it down at night Great Exuma may not be your island. There seems to be some sort of entertainment going on at some location every night of the week. Look for the schedule in the Exuma Visitors’ Guide. We found that the Rake and Scrape party is the happening place to be.

Rake and scrape is a genre of music native to the Bahamas. Musicians play the Goombay drum, an accordion, and a hand saw, usually along with an electric guitar, bass, and sometimes key boards in the bigger bands. The rhythmic vibe of the music gets every one moving and grooving.

Visit Eddie’s Waters Edge for the Rake and Scrape Dance Party

We heard The New Eddie’s Waters Edge in Georgetown was where things would be hopping on Tuesday night.

Eddie’s has a big outdoor covered deck on the front of the building with plenty of picnic tables. When we arrived the deck was packed and people were spilling out onto the steps on both sides and into the parking areas. There was a two hour wait for the local fare at Eddie’s that night. At the bar, even though it was crowded, it was only about a two minute wait for a Kalik beer or a Goombay Smash (or any other beverage you may have wanted from the bar).

Eddie’s is not big on interior decorating. Inside is a mixture of unmatched tiled walls, paneling, a linoleum floor and poorly cut molding in a strange retro-local island style. It reminded me a little bit of Lisa’s Italian grandmother’s basement kitchen, but not on the same level of craftsmanship. A few minutes after 8:00 p.m., the band started playing. It was then that all hell broke loose. We were having so much fun that we forgot to take photos to share!

The music has an upbeat rhythm. It reminded me of soca and a little bit of New Orleans zydeco music.

It’s Impossible Not to Dance at Eddie’s

A local guy came in loaded with Mardi Gras style hats, masks and an apron-skirt thing adorned with feathers and bright colored fabric. The guy randomly chose patrons and dressed them in his party paraphernalia as he danced each one out onto the dance floor. No one seemed to mind. In fact, everyone seemed to quite enjoy it!

The whole the place crammed onto the dance floor. The large middle-aged yachting crowd predominated. Locals, tourists, guys in their work clothes from the day, the drunken guy with the white boots dancing like M.C. Hammer, the French girls in their sexy outfits and us — we all danced, sweating like the pigs we visited the day before. Beer and rum spilled as everyone bumped into each other grooving to the music. No one noticed, or cared. The Rake and Scrape party at Eddie’s was an extraordinary and entertaining blend of people, cultures and smells!

Rake and Scrape at Club Peace and Plenty

Lobby Area at Club Peace N Plenty in Georgetown Exuma

On Thursday night we caught a Rake and Scrape style band on the terrace at Peace and Plenty Hotel on the main circle in Georgetown. There was a poolside buffet, and the band played outside on the terrace. We recognized most of the same characters from Eddie’s at Peace and Plenty. The dancing and the vibe at Peace and Plenty was a lot more subdued than at Eddie’s, but still fun.

5. Swimming With the Pigs is Popular – is it Cool or Crap?

Most people have never even heard of Exuma. Those who have ask, “It that where you can swim with the pigs?” Yes, it is.

Swimming Pig in Sparkling Water — Pig in Crystal Clear Sparkling Water

Here’s a secret we discovered about swimming with the pigs. We found that there are actually two spots to swim with the pigs. The original spot is on Big Major Cay, also known as Pig Beach. Tour companies offer pricey full or half-day trips to Pig Beach (along with a few other stops) for hundreds of dollars per person. These tours stop at a few spots — to swim with the pigs, swim with sharks and to visit iguana island. We didn’t do that. We drove ourselves to the north end of the island to Exuma Point Bar and Grille on the in Rolleville.

Visit the Swimming Pigs on a Boat from Exuma Point Bar and Grille

Lisa and Pat On Exuma Point Dock — Exuma Point Dock

Exuma Point Bar and Grille is located on yet another gorgeous beach. There are lounge chairs for relaxing. There is a huge covered deck and a restaurant serving lunch and dinner. On the Monday we visited there was not much activity. We were the only four people there. For $50 per person, Exuma Point Bar and Grille will run you across to their pig island to feed and swim with the pigs. Before we went, a local suggested we bring a loaf of bread and carrots to give the salt water oinkers something to munch on.

Do they really swim? Well the pigs certainly get in the water and come out to the boats. However, I am not convinced that the pigs get in over their head and do the piggy paddle. As our boat approached, the pigs were in the water close to another boat that was already anchored near the island. When we arrived, a pack of pigs made their way in our direction.

Lisa and Pat Feeding the Kind of Swimming Pigs on Pig Island Exuma — Feeding the Kind of Swimming Pigs

Exuma’s swimming pigs are living proof of Pavlov’s theory. These humongous porkers are just interested in a little chow. Offer them some food, they will wade into the water and be your buddies.

Are they dangerous? Before we went we heard rumors of pigs biting people. Luckily, there were no biting pigs when we were there. I’m sure it can happen if you piss off a pig, or scare them, or maybe if they mistake you for a loaf of bread in a bikini.Our boat captain told us that if you splash water in pigs’ faces, they go away. Just stay in the boat if you are really worried about becoming a bacon bite.

Lisa and Pat behind a huge pig on Pig Island — Can you believe how freakin’ big they are???

We spent about 15 minutes of obligatory picture-taking in the water with the pigs and also of the six little piglets asleep up under the trees on the island. Then suddenly, we were overcome by swine poo! All at once, like someone blew a whistle, all of the pigs starting shitting in the water at once. Lisa and the girls who accompanied us started screaming and trying to dodge the all of the turds floating in the crystal blue water. However, I am like many men who are routinely told by their significant others to “stop being an Idiot.” Unlike the girls, I found the situation hysterical. I stood there laughing my ass off. To me, this was an even better photo-op! I snapped the perfect pics to send to my equally idiotic buddies.

Should You Go, or is it Best to Avoid the Swine Poo

Pig poop floating in the ocean — Ewww! Pig Poo!

The bottom line — I don’t think the pigs really swim. But, their turds really float. Is it worth it? Lisa says swimming with the pigs is gross. She didn’t even want to get out of the boat. She’d heard the stories of the biting pigs. When she saw how extremely large the pigs are, that didn’t help. Lisa also thinks it’s too expensive and not worth it. Yet, she eventually disembarked and probably took about 150 pictures.

My philosophy is: we are on vacation. I have a couple extra bucks on me to do things I wouldn’t normally do. This is one of them. Admittedly, at home, I usually avoid pigs in the water. Visiting Exuma’s famous swimming pigs is a unique adventure, if not a strange phenomenon.

I say swimming with the pigs is cool at the price of $50.00 from Exuma Point Bar and Grille. Plus, when you return home and someone asks the one question people ask about Exuma, “Did you swim with the Pigs?” You can say that you did!Lisa says swimming with the pigs is just crap!

6. Tranquility is Swimming with the Sea Turtles

After a few days on Exuma we learned from a local that sea turtles swim in Hooper’s Bay. The beach at Hooper’s Bay is another white sand beach. It is a cove sheltered by Stocking Island. Hooper’s Bay is located approximately two miles north of Georgetown right off the main road, Queens Highway, south of Jolly Hall Beach. Park on the east side of the road near the beach access sign and garbage bins. Follow the path along the concrete wall down to the beach.

Find the Sea Turtles at Hooper’s Bay

Sea turtle swimming in the ocean at Hooper Bay — Sea turtle at Hooper Bay

When you reach the beach, take a right and head south to the three docks near the other end of the beach. Wade into the water, or swim with your snorkel gear, and the turtles come right up to you. It’s really cool. There is something very tranquil about these big and small turtles casually swiming around you.

Don’t Feed the Sea Turtles

Be aware: there is a serious issue with feeding the sea turtles. Many people think it is OK. Boat captains bring in tourists and conch to attract and feed the turtles. DON’T FEED THEM! It will kill them. Sea turtles eat sea grass, which sustains their slow growth and shell development. Feeding them conch causes them to grow too fast in their shells, which eventually causes them a slow painful death. It makes me sad just thinking about it. Just swim around with the turtles, snap a few pics, and enjoy their tranquil existence. Help assure that the sea turtles will be around for a 100’s of more years so future generations can also enjoy their beauty.

7. Exuma is Known For Sport Fishing

The only fishing I do is in the cooler for the coldest beer in the ice and water at the bottom. If you are a serious fisherman, or even just looking to fish for fun, Exuma probably has what you’re looking for. If you are interested in deep-sea fishing, bottom fishing, fly-fishing or reef fishing, Exuma has it all. Exuma is world-renowned for its bone fishing. Also found in the deep waters of the Exuma Sound are tuna, barracuda, sailfish, blue marlin, wahoo, mahi-mahi, king fish, and the list goes on. Half-day and ful- day professional charters are available. I hope that with the steep charter prices, they fish that cold beer out of the bottom of the cooler for you.

8. The Sunrises and Sunsets On Exuma Are Spectacular

Dusk on Three Sisters Beach on Great Exuma — Dusk on Three Sisters Beach

Our townhouse on Three Sisters beach had a gorgeous view of the beach. The bedrooms were on the second floor. We kept our blinds open and awoke every morning to the sound of the waves and the most beautiful sunrises over the silvery blue ocean. Honestly, can you think of a better way to wake up every day?

Find a Place on the Westside at Sunset

Lisa and Pat enjoying dusk on the deck at Club YOLO Grill and Hookah Bar — Enjoying dusk on the deck at Club YOLO Grill and Hookah Bar

Catching the sunset was not quite as easy watching the sunrise since we were on the east side of the island. Although, at dusk the ocean and the sky seemed to blur together in a blend of blue, pink, silver and gray.

Catch A Fire Is Closed

We didn’t find any establishments on the west side of the Island. There are two locations we discovered on the west side that would be phenomenal to watch the sun dip into the water. The only problem is — they don’t seem to be open to the publci. Catch A Fire looks like it was a funky waterside club-bar with a boat launch and a dock, but it was closed down. I believe Catch A Fire is closed due to a fire. However, I bet you could bring a cooler with drinks and hang out for the sunset and no one would disturb you. You could probably have the whole area to yourself for free!

The Cays is a Quiet Holiday Rental Resort

Nearby, we also stumbled upon resort called, “The Cays.” The Cays is a small exclusive development of 13 properties located on the beach on the south side of Exuma. There is very cool bar and pool area right on the water. When we drove up, it was very quite. There were people sitting around the pool and beach area relaxing. However, the only person by the bar was a 6-year-old local boy who said the bar wasn’t open. He didn’t explain any further to my inquiry if that meant the bar was closed for the day or for good. We have since learned that the cottages are private rentals, and the bar is an honor bar. The Cays looks like a fantastic spot to catch a sunset.

Both The Cays the former location of Catch A Fire and can be reached by heading east off of Queens Highway on to Moss Town Road. Turn left when you see the sign for “The Cays” on the side of the road. The gravel road is roughly a mile down. There was nothing else down there. Pack that cooler and go on the adventure!

9. Visit Exuma for a Laid Back Unpretentious Island Destination With Stunning Unspoiled Beaches

We went to Exuma in search of our perfect beach destination. What exactly is that? We look for a place where the beaches are not crowded. To us, soft white sand, clear waters, and sheltered swimmable beaches are ideal. We prefer casual over elegance. We would rather stay in a beach cottage and make our own coffee in the morning than a big resort and be served. Fun and funky beach bars are required. Ideally, we could walk everywhere and never have to get into a car. Exuma ticked nearly all of the boxes. The only thing we didn’t find is a central location to stay where everything you would want is within walking distance.

If you are a looking for a laid back unpretentious island destination with stunning unspoiled beaches, Exuma is definitely the place and perhaps even our #1 place to go. We can’t wait to go back!

The Wrap Up

The Vibe: Laid, back beach and nature.

Good to Know: Just like on other islands in the Bahamas, we found that the “no see-ums” can be brutal. They are biting flies smaller than fleas. Their bites are painful, and can cause intensely itchy welts, worse than mosquito bites. Bring and frequently apply an insect repellent. It seems like they are the worst around dusk.

What To Do: Lounge on a beach, enjoy nature, explore the hundreds of cays.

What to Wear: You really don’t need anything but a bathing suit, a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. Very casual attire is appropriate even in the fancier restaurants.

When to Go: Anytime. Locals told us that it was busy season at the end of February, when we visited. At that time, there were not a lot of people around. No place was ever too crowded.

How to Get There and Around: There are direct flights to Exuma from Nassau, Fort Lauderdale and from Toronto . We recommend renting a car if you plan on exploring the whole island. Taxis seem like a really expensive option. From the middle of the island to Georgetown (about 12 miles) the cab fare was $40.00. We rented from Airport Car Rental right across the road from the airport.

Where we stayed: We booked our townhouse through Home Away. There are only two large resorts on the island. Both Sandals and Grand Isle Resort and Spa are on Emerald bay, a mile-long stretch of ivory beach at the north end of the Island. Sandals is an all-inclusive brand. Grand Isle is a mix of condos and luxury villas in a gated community with full amenities, including golf carts to scoot around the complex.

Where We Ate: We shopped at the local food stores and ate many of our meals at home. If fine dining is a priority, Exuma is not your island. While you can find good food, I don’t believe the foodies out there would be very impressed with what they get. Most restaurants offer the local “Cracked Conk” or a fresh “Conch Salad.” We were disappointed that we were not able to get conch salad at some of the places we visited. They told us that they are unable to dive for the conch in high winds. See our reviews on TripAdvisor for more information about restaurants.

Our Shoes: We usually like to suggest footwear for a destination. Considering – comfort, weather and of course, style. I am always trying to find boots that work for all environments. However, on Exuma, that goes out the window. If you are not wearing sandals or flip-flops, you are seriously over dressed for comfort, weather and style. If you are on one of these beautiful white powder sand beaches, you had better be barefoot!

Visit Nashville on New Year’s Eve for The Best Celebration and Live Music Anywhere!

Destinations, United States

Lisa and Patrick arriving in the Nashville Airport — Just Arriving in Nashville

I just became a country music fan about a year ago and fell deeply in love with the genre. Soon thereafter, I added Nashville, Tennessee to my bucket list because I couldn’t think of a better place to visit to soak up a few days my new favorite music, live. As the 2018 holiday season approached, I was itching to do something fun, something different together for New Year’s Eve. Then, it hit me — let’s g to Nashville! We spent so much time in our younger years listening to live music together. That flash of inspiration turned out to be divine. New Year’s Eve Party in Nashville was hands down our best ever! Nashville, especially it’s Music Row, is a vibrant, exhilarating, blood-pumping town to visit not only for country music fans, but music lovers of all kinds. To boot, there is also plenty that will appeal to sports fans and foodies.

Nashville’s Music Row is a Must for Music Lovers

Music Row is Alive with Music Day and Night

For the music lover, options abound in Nashville. You definitely don’t have to be a Country music fan to enjoy Nashville. We went to Nashville expecting to find Garth Brooks style music in every bar. We were pleasantly surprised by what we discovered, a variety of music and a lot of rock and roll. It makes perfect sense when you think about it. Honky Tonk music is the root of rock n’ roll. You can definitely hear the origins of rock n’ roll in the artists performing in downtown Nashville. The hot spot for live music in Nashville is Music Row. Music Row is located in downtown Nashville on Broadway between 1st and 5th Avenues. Honky Tonks not only line both sides of Broadway on Music Row, but also spill over onto the cross streets. If you search the term on Google, you will find varying definitions of “Honky Tonk.” According to our trolley tour operator, to qualify as a Nashville Honky Tonk an establishment must be open seven days a week, have a stage for live music, and serve beer and whiskey.

Lisa and Pat at Big Shotz on Second Ave in downtown Nashville — Big Shotz on Second Ave

Strolling down Music Row at 10:00 a.m., we found the doors and windows of the Honky Tonks wide open, bands playing, and live music already wafting into the street. As the day progressed the wafting became heart pumping and foot stomping, the crowds inside and outside grew, and the temptation to stop in for a song or two became irresistible. By night the place turns into “Nash Vegas.” The brightly colored neon lights of the bars and restaurants illuminate both sides of Broadway contributing to a year-round festive atmosphere. Lively gaggles of people of all ages spill out of the bars and fill the sidewalks along the street. This place is definitely one big down home party. And, don’t think Nashville is just for the young. It’s all about the young at heart, a bucket list destination for any one who loves live music.

The Neon Lights of the Famous Tootsie's Orchid Lounge

Lisa and Patrick At Nudie's Honky Tonk Rooftop Bar

Neon Lights on Broadway-Music Row Nashville at Night

Go Get Your Honky Tonk On

Lisa in front of Legends Mural on 5th Ave — Legends Mural on 5th Ave

I lost track of how many Honky Tonks we wandered into. Each one is as good as the next, yet each has its own distinct personality. There is no cover charge for entry. The musicians earn their wage by passing a hat at various times throughout their performances. To hear your favorite song, just drop a ten or or twenty in the hat. The venues range from old time saloons, like Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge and Nudie’s Honky Tonk, to the new, fancier bars owned by celebrities, like Blake Shelton’s Ole Red, Dierks Bentley’s Whiskey Row, and Jason Aldean’s Kitchen & Rooftop Bar. Everywhere you go the music is amazingly good and the crowd is dancing and singing along.

It’s the Kind of Live Music that Makes Your Blood Pump

It’s the kind of music that makes you feel the base deep in your throat and in your veins, the kind of music that makes it impossible not to move to the beat. The passion of the musicians permeates the atmosphere. Their dreams of making it big are palpable, creating a contagious energy and excitement throughout each venue. Certainly, you will hear a lot of Country music, old and new, but you will also be moved by rock music, R & B and most likely any kind of music that you may be looking for. Each venue has a personality of its own. There is no doubt you will find a place perfect for you.

Nudie’s Cadillac
Nudie’s Honky Tonk

One of our favorites was Nudie’s Honky Tonk. When we were there, the artist Cullen Greer was playing. Listening to Cullen, it was hard to believe that we hadn’t heard of him before. His voice is as country as it gets and as “smooth as Tennesee whiskey,” as they say. Cullen made an indelible impression on us. As we understand it, Nudie, whom the bar is named after, was the guy who created costumes for celebrities like Hank Williams, Gene Autry, Johnny Cash, and Bob Dylan, Roy Rogers. Nudie’s claims to have the longest bar on Music Row. The entire length is embedded with silver dollars. The place is chock full of music memorabilia too. Most impressive, however, is the Cadillac El Dorado hanging high above the stage on the first floor. We certainly had never see anything like that before!

Printers Alley is a Close Second to Music Row

Al Green and the Hard Times performing on stage at Bourbon St. Boogie Bar in Nashville

Printers Alley, located on 4th Avenue between Union and Church Streets, just blocks from Music Row also should not be missed. After arriving in Nashville on an 11:30 p.m. flight, we dropped our bags and were immediately out the door, “just to check things out.” We were drawn to the Bourbon Street Blues and Boogie Bar by the funky R & B music we could hear from the alley and dynamic lead singer we glimpsed dancing on the stage. As the name suggests, the Bourbon Street Boogie Bar is a New Orleans style venue. You are adorned with the famous beads upon entry. Colorful paintings of music legends hang on the walls throughout along side masquerades and neon Jack Daniels signs. The stage consumes a large portion of the first floor of this intimate venue. A New Orleans style wrought iron balcony hangs above the stage. There isn’t a bad seat in the house. The energy from live R & B band, Al Green and The Hard Times , and the crowd was infectious. It was the last set when we arrived, and Al was still bouncing around the stage challenging the crowd to get up and dance. And, they did. Even though we were exhausted from our travels and our late arrival to Nashville, we stayed until the bar closed. First we watched from the bar on the first floor. Then we ventured up to the second floor balcony where we could observe almost directly over the stage. We were sad it was over when the music stopped for the evening.

The Party and Live Music was Electric on New Year’s Eve

Patrick and Lisa Photo Booth Picture from the New Year's Eve Gold Circle Party

We spent New Year’s Eve with nearly 200,000 other people at Jack Daniel’s Music City Midnight, an outdoor concert/party that takes over Bicentennial Capitol Mall State Park in downtown Nashville. Though a crowd of such numbers may seem a bit daunting, the event was incredibly orchestrated and perfectly executed by the Nashville Convention and Visitors Center. It never felt overwhelming. The venue included food and drink trucks, party tents with bars, photo op stations, bathrooms and lockers. Best of all, the event is family friendly and free! We opted to purchase the VIP Gold Circle package, which included a party inside the Farmer’s Market with a food buffet, several bars, cocktail tables, photo booth, phone charging stations, bathrooms, and a designated outdoor viewing area of the stage. Though a bit pricey, the Gold Circle Party was worth every penny we paid.

The Musical Performances on New Year’s Eve Were First Class

Brett Young Performing at Jack Daniels Music City New Years Eve

Keith Urban on Stage at Midnight at the Jack Daniel's Music City Midnight Concert In Nashville

Keith Urban Performing on NYE at the Jack Daniel's Music City Midnight

The musical line up included Fisk Jubilee Singers, Devon Gilfillian, Caitlyn Smith, Judah & the Lion, Brett Young, Peter Frampton, and the headliner, Keith Urban. We hadn’t heard of half of the performers in the line up. I was worried that we may be bored before the arrival of Keith Urban. Absolutely not! Everyone one of the performers was first class and their performances heartfelt. You could feel their genuine excitement in being there, which fed the fervor of the crowd. At midnight, the City’s sixteen-foot red musical note dropped from high above the stage, an a flashy display of fireworks went off, and the crowd was showered with confetti. Keith Urban continued to play after the countdown.

Nashville is for Sports Lovers Too

Titans Cheerleaders Parading down Broadway in Nashville on game day. — Titans Cheerleaders Parading Down Broadway on Game Day

Almost everywhere we went during our time in Nashville, we witnessed groups of fans “pre-gaming” at the bars. The NFL Tennessee Titans play at Nissan Stadium in downtown Nashville located across the Cumberland River from Music Row. The Titans cheerleading team and mascot paraded down Music Row in the afternoon before the Sunday night game, tossing out Titans paraphernalia and drumming up more excitement amongst the already enthusiastic jersey adorned fans. On New Year’s Day, Music Row was overtaken by exuberant NHL Nashville Predators Fans wearing the trademark “Smashville” gear. Like the football stadium, the Bridgestone Arena is within a short walk from Music Row on the corner of 5th Avenue and Broadway. If you stand in the middle of Broadway you will see Nissan Stadium at one end and Bridgstone Arena at the other.

The Food Lovers Nashville

Hot Chicken at Puckett’s Grocery & Restaurant

A visit to Nashville would not be complete without trying its famous barbecue and hot chicken. Hattie B’s in Midtown is the famed place to go for “the best” hot chicken. We went to Hattie’s at about 2:30 p.m. The line of people waiting to get in was out the door and around the block. I was too hungry to wait it out. Instead, I got my hot chicken at Puckett’s Grocery & Restaurant located on Church Street in downtown Nashville. I ordered the Music City Hot Chicken sandwich with sweet potato fries and coleslaw. The hot chicken was a lightly battered fried chicken breast seasoned with Puckett’s own blend of hot chicken spices. My chicken was tender, juicy and spicy. The more I ate the hotter it got, but not too hot to finish!

Plan Ahead To Try Famous Barbeque

We encountered the same problem with trying the famous barbeque as we did with hot chicken. We did not plan ahead, and again I was too hungry to wait in the long line at the Peg-Legged Pig, located in the Gulch neighborhood. If you are hoping to try Hattie B’s or one of the famous barbeque joints, plan ahead and be prepared to wait for a long while in line!

You Can’t Visit Nashville Without Falling in Love

We didn’t have the chance to try the most famous hot chicken or barbecue in Nashville. And, we were having so much fun where in all of the Honky Tonks we visited listening to the live music that we never got to the Wild Horse Saloon to take the line dancing lessons I had planned. I guess that just means we will have to go back!

Lisa and Patrick on 2nd Avenue Downtown Nashville — 2nd Avenue Downtown Nashville

Nashville is a place with heart and soul. It is a City of hopes and dreams. We could see and feel the passion and drive of the musicians in every musical performance that we took in during our three-day stay. Nashville reminded me one of the reasons why I love to travel. Experiencing new things together always reignites our passion for each other and reminds us of all of the things we enjoy together. Nashville brought us back to your early days when savoring music together was more of a part of our lives. Nashville gave us new energy and new music to love together. Thank you Nashville for the best New Year’s ever!

The Wrap Up

The Vibe: Party, Cowboy/Cowgirl, Honky Tonk

What To Do: Experience live music, dance, eat barbecue and hot chicken, go to a Titans NFL game or a Predators NHL game.

What to Wear: Jeans, boots of any kind, and if you don’t have them you can buy them.

When to Go: Anytime. Locals told us that it was not busy at the end of December/beginning of January, when we visited. At that time of year, there were a lot of people around, but the no place was ever too crowded.

How to Get Around: We took a taxi from the airport and stayed downtown. We walked almost everywhere, and took the free Metro bus. We took a hop on hop off Trolley Tour from Music Row to take in all of the City’s landmark’s.

Our Room at Stay Alfred, 505 Church St, Nashville — Studio Room at Stay Alfred

Where We Stayed: Stay Alfred, 505 Church St., within easy walking distance from Music Row and Printers Alley. Beautiful and a great value!

Where We Ate: Puckett’s Grocery & Restaurant, 500 Church St., Jack’s Barbeque, 1601 Charlotte Ave., Stock & Barrel, 901 Gleaves St. (We’re not big eaters!)

Our Shoes: A splurge for Pat, Justin Boots, purchased from Boot Country located at 304 Broadway (aka Music Row). I wore my boots purchased from Aldo over a decade ago! They don’t have to be cowboy boots. Wear any kinds of boots, and you will fit in.

Lisa’s Old Cowboy Boots
Pat’s New Cowboy Boots

Seek Blissful Adventure in Lake Placid, New York

Destinations, United States

View of Mountains in Lake Placid New York

I always wanted to visit Lake Placid, New York, located in the Adirondack Mountains. Over the years I had heard of the world-class dining, plush resorts and spas, adventurous mountain hikes and vistas, and the Olympic facilities in Lake Placid. For me the allure of Lake Placid was my vision of a Dickens-like village that hosted the winter Olympics (twice!) and the opportunity for outdoor exploration as we as R & R. The trip did not disappoint. Set on shimmering Mirror Lake with a mountainous backdrop and Main street as its hub, the Village is enchanting. Our three-day get away was an excellent adventure combined with a perfect dose of blissful relaxation.

Tucked in the Mountains, Lake Placid Maintains An Eclectic Charm.

Main St View of Mirror Lake in Lake Placid, New York — Main St View of Mirror Lake

Pat Enjoying the Firepit at Pickled Pig

The Adirondack Mountains are home to the largest protected natural area in the lower 48 of the United States. The Adirondack Park is larger than the combined areas of Yellowstone, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, the Great Smokies and Glacier National Parks. The Lake Placid Region is in the northern Adirondacks encompassing the Ausable River of the Whiteface Region as well as the highest peaks of New York — there are 46 of them.

Don’t Confuse the Town of Lake Placid with the Lake!

Oddly enough, the Village of Lake Placid is located on Mirror Lake, and not on the lake just north of Mirror Lake, which is actually “Lake Placid.” Visiting the Adirondack Alpine Village of Lake Placid fees like taking a trip back into the late 1950s-early 1960s. Just outside of “downtown” Lake Placid, we passed an eclectic mix of motels, hotels, swank lodges, diners, restaurants, and ice cream stands. The main scene is, not quite Dickens village, but more like original 1950s Tudor meets gingerbread design. Newer lodges of timber construction exuding understated posh retreat are hidden down winding tree-lined lanes. Lake Placid, is at the same time, small town and international, old money and monied hippie — a destination of refreshing contrasts and endless possibilities for adventure and rejuvenation.

Old Stone Church on Main Street Lake Placid

Lake Placid Maintains A Small Town Feel.

What struck me most is that even after hosting two winter Olympics, Main Street Lake Placid remains small town in the way it looks and feels. Walking down Main Street we found a lovely old stone church and classic movie theater amid the shops and restaurants. The ubiquitous scent of fires blazing warmed the brisk October air. We loved that so many area restaurants offer outdoor fire pits surrounded by Adirondack Chairs, of course. There were so many spots sit outside to enjoy a drink and a bite, day or night, year round! Set against the calm, silvery gray Mirror Lake, looming dark mountains in the background, and under the bright blue and white cloud October sky, Lake Placid evokes another contradiction. It is both peaceful and exciting. Our pursuits during our visit fell distinctly in to both categories.

Visit Main St. Shops, Boutiques, Restaurants, Cafes and Such.

We explored Main Street, wandering in and out of the shops and stopping here and there to enjoy a drink by an outdoor fire and eventually for a light lunch. Our favorite shop was Saratoga Olive Company. The olive oils and balsamic vinegar sold in the shop are displayed in large glass containers for tasting with small chunks of bread. There are so many to taste and to choose from that it is dizzying! We ultimately settled on a traditional balsamic vinegar and Milanese Gremolata olive oil. The oil is light with a bit of a fruity flavor and a hint of lemon. It is so delicious that I am tempted to drink it straight out of the bottle. Saratoga Olive Oil Company also carries other goods like cutting boards, wine accessories, wood kitchen accessories, and unique cooking items.

Try the Funky Downtown Diner!

“Prepared Pat” awoke early on the morning that we planned to hike Mt. Jo. The 2.6 mile hike is rated “family friendly.” However, we read warnings online that if you fail to arrive early, you risk being closed out of the parking lot. That adds an extra mile to your hike. We didn’t discuss it, but we were both secretly concerned about the hike. Though presumably suitable for children, we worried that it may not be so easy for these two inexperienced 50-somethings. We were bundled up in layers ready for an arctic freeze and outfitted with backpacks filled with water and energy bars, a knife, twine and who knows what else (in case we were injured or stranded). In this condition, we headed out for our first high peaks hike together.

First stop — the funky Downtown Diner. The diner located on Main Street as you head south out of town on Route 73 for a “good breakfast.” It is definitely the only diner we have ever seen with sparkling chandeliers and vinyl booths and stools mended with colorful fuscia and purple duct tape. Pat, a tape fanatic, was clearly impressed. We both enjoyed a full breakfast for under $15.00. The service was quick.

Mt. Jo – A Perfect Hike for the Novice.

Summit Sign in the Adirondacks, New York

The timing of our arrival at Mt. Joe was impeccable. The swarms of people raised some concern. Was the hike going to be a line of people walking up the mountain? Not quite the solitude I had imagined. My trepidation grew when we entered the information center. The weather blackboard at the entrance of the High Peaks Information Center reported sunrise and sunset times; the board said that temperature at the summit was 9 degrees Fahrenheit with winds of 45-55 mph! We waited in line while the hikers ahead of us gathered maps and directions and rented spikes for their boots.

What? I know at that point Pat was thinking to himself, “What has she gotten me into now?” This time, he kept it to himself. When it was our turn, I reported to the guy at the counter that (unlike the people in front of us who were planning a 26K round trip hike) we were “just planning on hiking Mt. Jo.” He replied, “Oh nice! Great day for it, ” and graciously did not laugh when I asked if we needed spikes for our trip. As we discovered, the spot was the location for a number of trail heads, in addition to Mt. Jo. The spikes are for hikers heading for the high altitude icy peaks. Phew! Not us.

Photo Op on the Way Up Mt Jo in the Adirondacks, New York

Near the Peak of Mt Jo Adirondacks, New York

Lisa and Pat at the Peak of Mt Jo in the Adirondacks, New York

At A Leisurely Pace Mt. Jo Is 2-Hour Hike.

As it turned out, the 2.6 mile round trip hike took only about two hours. We took the short, rocky and sometimes steep trail up and the more gently descending trail down. I would describe the short trial as lightly challenging; we were definitely slightly winded at times. The reward at the peak — a panoramic view of the High Peaks. At first, we were completely alone at the top. That brief moment gave us the opportunity to appreciate the magnificence of the High Peaks and quiet solitude. I couldn’t help but think how tiny we are all as individuals in this world of natural beauty and how infrequently we stop to take notice.

Soon a group of four joined us at the top, and then two more after them. We all anxiously exchanged cell phones to snap photos of each other. I wonder how many of us immediately posted them on social media? I admit that I attempted to send a photo to my daughter, but failed due to poor reception. It saddened me a little to acknowledge that even at the top of a High Peak in the ADK most of us remain addicted to our smart phones instead of being present in the moment.

Don’t Miss the Olympic Sites in Lake Placid!

Awards Platform at Olympic Ski Jumping Complex

While in Lake Placid we stopped at a few of the Olympic Sites. I imagined an “Olympic Village” and was surprised that the Olympic Sites are not a single venue, but various sites located throughout the area. On Veteran’s Memorial Highway you can drive nearly to the top of Whiteface Mountain for famed panoramic views. Unfortunately, it was closed at the time of our visit.

Before You Go, Call to See if the Olympic and other Venues Will be Open.

Various people not affiliated with the Olympic Sites told us that the highway generally closes on October 1 each year. Unaware, we actually attempted the drive and the road was blocked. Since it was late afternoon, we assumed the road was closed for the day and asked a couple of construction guys if the road closes at 4 p.m. One of them responded, “Yeah. It closed at 4:00 p.m. on October 1, 2018 (twenty days earlier). You don’t want to go up there at this time of year. It’s the place from hell. Nothing but ice and wind.”

After attempting to visit a few of the sites, I realized that the information on Whiteface.com about the Olympic venues was neither clear nor completely up-to-date. The Cloudsplitter Gondola ride at Little Whiteface, another attraction advertised for views, was not operating. I did not find this information anywhere on the web. Even when we arrived, while the facilities clearly were closed, there were no signs or information posted anywhere.

Activities at the Bobsled, Luge and Skeleton Track are Intense.

I was really pumped to try the Bobsled Experience at that Bobsled Luge and Skeleton Track at the Olympic Sports Complex, and Pat agreed to coming along for what would surely be a wild ride! Unfortunately, the Bobsled Experience was not operating either. We visited the complex anyway. It was worth the half-hour trip. We quickly passed through the small Olympic bobsled and luge museum and went outside to where the tracks are. Olympic two-man luge athletes and a female skeleton competitor were performing practice runs. There were only a few other visitors in the area, which seemed otherwise deserted. We stood around and waited for several minutes wondering if anything was going to happen, but when it did it was pretty intense. We caught one run of each, or at least Pat did.

The athletes are announced before they start the run, and the announcer narrates the event, noting each numbered curve that they approach. We had no idea what curve we were standing on, but we could definitely hear them approaching. I turned my head away from the direction of the sound for a split second just to move around Pat for a better view, and the lugers came and were gone! Out of the corner of my eye I caught barely a passing blur, and screamed, “Holy shit!” I could not believe that I actually missed them.

Views from the Top of the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex are Awe-Inspiring.

View from Top of the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex — View from Top of Ski Jumping Complex

We also visited the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex. At the base, only the gift shop in the lodge was open. The chair lift was closed. Out on the deck we watched junior competitors practice jumps on the lower practice runs, without snow! While the junior run looks like the “kiddie mountain” with the Olympic competition run soaring into the sky above it. I imagine that there should a signing declaring: “Do not attempt this stunt at home. You will risk serious injury or death.”

Look How They Can Fly!

To glimpse the extreme adrenalin rush the ski jumpers must experience, you must take the elevator to the top of the 393 foot (26 story) tower to the top of the ramp where the jumpers launch. Standing at the top of the ramp I thought, “How on earth does one decide – this is what I want to do?” While we were wandering around the area, we saw a jumper walk up the stairs with his skis on his shoulders to the 90 meter (295 foot) tower and launch! Watching him, I understood completely why it’s called “flying.” He launched, gracefully flew through the air for several seconds, landed on the grass, removed his skis, and casually walked away. Wow.

Fire Pits Blaze at The Cottage on Mirror Lake.

The perfect way to cap off our afternoon of outdoor activity was a late afternoon snack and beverage at The Cottage at the Mirror Lake on the outside terrace. The Cottage is at the north end of Mirror Lake with an expansive view to the south. In late October the terrace was full. We lucked out in getting a table. Multiple fires burned in fire pits and one in a wood burning stove conveniently tucked into a corner of the terrace to encourage viewing of both the fire and Mirror Lake. Small groups of diners cozied up to the fires and to dine at tables while taking in view of the lake. Sitting beside our own fire pit, we enjoyed wine and beer, flatbread pizza, and baked brie with apples and walnuts.

Inside The Cottage the wood bar opens to the dining area. The aged hardwood floors and wood beam ceilings exude warmth. The tables all come with a view Mirror Lake. The food was about average, but the view and the rustic and inviting atmosphere inside and out compensate for the mediocre fare.

View of Mirror Lake from the Patio of The Cottage Restuaruant in Lake Placid

It Can Be A Perilous Trek Along High Falls Gorge.

During our stay in Lake Placid we took a short hike at the High Falls Gorge. High Falls Gorge is a privately owned nature park. When you enter and leave High Falls Gorge you have to go through the Adirondack Gift Shop, where you buy your ticket. The shop is filled with tempting local items you probably don’t need but end up buying thinking you might have a place for it — like in a garage sale ten years down the road. Attached to the gift shop is the Riverside Café serving beer and wine and a rumored decent burger.

High Falls Gorge
Photo After Lisa’s Dramatic Slid Down the Stairs
Walkway Along High Falls Gorge

The hike takes you over a suspended metal walkway alongside and across the gorge, which cuts through the Ausable River. There are three waterfalls along the hike. The views are awesome, presenting great photo ops in front of the powerful river ripping through the massive rocks. In some places standing high above the water on the cable, wooden and steel bridging system you feel as if you are dangling treacherously above the falls. Take note – at at the start of the trail the first set of about 12 stairs leading down to a small platform for viewing the largest and highest waterfall may be wet from the mist emanating from the falls. At the time of our visit the temperature had dropped from 60 degrees and sunny the day before, to 26 degrees, snowing and windy as hell.

Proceed With Caution When Temps are Below Freezing!

The brief hike was pretty cool in the wintry setting, but potentially dangerous as well. As Lisa started her decent on the steps of the first viewing area, she unknowingly stepped onto the third step covered with ice that was hidden by a dusting of snow. Suddenly her feet flew above her waist, and she began a rapid ass-bounce down the stairs heading toward the small viewing platform extending out over the falls. Holding on to the ice covered rail failed to slow her rapid descent. I thought for sure that she was going to be launched off the end of the platform into the abyss of rock, water and ice below.

When In Doubt, Just Yell.

Totally unable to do anything to help as I stood at the top of the steps behind her, I yelled, “What the hell are you doing,” as if that would somehow decelerate her fall. Eventually, Lisa came to a stop on her own just two steps from almost certain death. She turned and said, “Thanks for the help, ” and crawled upon back up the stair. Following that blip of excitement , we proceeded more gingerly on the rest of the walk while enjoying the breath taking views.

After walking along the river, we ventured into the area of the hiking trail which isn’t more than a path thru the woods for about a mile. While great for small kids, the woods trail clearly was not designed for the serious hikers that frequent the area. The walk along the gorge and the nature trail didn’t take more than 45 minutes even with stops for picture taking and falling. Overall a High Falls Gorge is a good spot for some very cool views and photos, or something to occupy the kids for a while you grab a big boy or big girl drink at the cafe. It’s worth the stop if you have the hour to spend.

Revel in High End Pampering at the Whiteface Lodge.

Whiteface Lodge

Located just off of Route 86 about a mile west of Main Street Lake Placid, The Whiteface Lodge is tucked into the Adirondack landscape. According to their website, the Lodge is listed as one of the best hotels in the country. The Whiteface Lodge goes all out to make the traditional Adirondack stay a pampered holiday, including modern, high-end amenities.

The the grounds and the hotel replicate the traditional Adirondack style lodge. Both the exterior and interior are constructed with exposed natural timbers. It seems like full trees stripped of their leaves and branches support the expansive lodge building. The dimly lit lobby warmly welcomes guests and visitors. The décor continues to the second floor where Peak 47, a bar and restaurant, is located. Across the landing from the Peak 47 is another magnificent upscale dining area, Kanu, with a high vaulted ceiling and floor to ceiling windows bringing the views of the mountains inside.

The Whiteface Lodge also boasts indoor-outdoor pools and jacuzzi for year round enjoyment, a bowling alley, fitness training room, movie theater, ponds, outdoor camp fire pit and many other amenities for all ages. A featured amenity of The Whiteface Lodge is the full service spa and salon offering just about any type of treatment you may be willing to buck up for. We splurged on a 80-minute couples massage, followed by a bubbling salt bath. The spa treatments were just what I needed to prep myself for the 16-ounce Adirondack brown lager that I later found at Peak 47. Clearly, I enjoy pampering.

Be Sure to Arrive Extra Early For Your Spa Treatments.

All in all, the Whiteface Lodge is likely to meet all of your expectations as long as you are willing to pay for it. A couple of things to note – the pre-treatment the relaxation areas are separately located in the men’s and women’s locker rooms. Before our treatments we enjoyed a too-brief soak in the outside Jacuzzi in the midst of 28 degree temperatures and lightly falling snow flakes.

When checking in at the spa we specifically asked about the pools and spas. While we were given directions to the pool area, the spa attendant neglected to inform us that you need a key card to get in. The pools are quite a distance through underground hallways from the spa. Unfortunately, when we discovered that we had to return to the spa desk to retrieve the key card for entry, we also realized that we were running out of time before our scheduled treatments to enjoy the pools. If you would like to relax and enjoy the pools and jacuzzi before your spa treatments, I suggest arriving at least an hour in advance of the time of your appointment to allow enough time to check in, change and walk to and from the pools.

Lake Placid is a Pleasantly Peaceful, Yet Adventurous Destination.

On our last morning in Lake Placid we stopped at The Breakfast Club on Main Street for creamy, frothy cappuccinos and over sized bagels before taking the 2.7 stroll around Mirror Lake. It’s an easy walk and worth the time for views of the the surrounding mountains from a variety of vantage points as well as historic and more recently constructed extravagant homes situated along the lake.

Maybe next time we’ll kick it up a notch and opt for a more vigorous high peaks hike. The Bobsled Experience will definitely be on the itinerary, and we’ll spend more time lounging in the pools at The Whiteface Lodge. Lake Placid was not exactly what I imagined, but then it is rare that things are. I am happy to report, however, that Lake Placid, exceeded my expectations. In the quirky, little storybook village of Lake Placid we found adventure and pampering. It’s a destination focused on reveling in the outdoors, breaking out of the confines of our daily lives. The trip gave us an opportunity not only to reconnect with nature, but with each other and to take some time absorb the stunning beauty of the Adirondacks, one of nation’s greatest nature reserves.

The Wrap Up

The Vibe: International, Olympic, Monied Hippie, Old Money.

What To Do: Mountain and trail hiking, boating, fishing, nature walks, visit Olympic venues, spas and pampering, fine dining.

What to Wear: In the fall, dress in layers and be prepared for extreme weather changes. The day time temperature ranged from in the high 50s to the 20s during the in the three days that we visited. If you plan on hiking, a good pair of hiking boots, or at the very least, cross training sneakers are essential. Even on our Mount Jo easier mountain hike there were tricky rocky areas and areas where we needed to use our hands to climb. In the evening, dress is smart casual in most places.

When to Go: Lake Placid is a year round destination. The locals told us that March and April are the slowest months. We went in late fall when “leaf peeping” is popular, but had missed the peak. Book more than two months in advance. I made our reservations six weeks in advance, and at that time most places were fully booked.

How to Get There: You need a car when in Lake Placid. The closest international airports are in Albany, NY, Burlington, VT, and Montreal, Canada, which are all under three hours driving distance to Lake Placid. Lake Placid is approximately a 4.5 hour drive from New York City.