Memphis was on our list of places to visit before Nashville. As we both recall, we were inspired by Anthony Bourdain’s customarily compelling story of Memphis. The only problem is – Bourdain never did a show on Memphis. What? How do we both remember that he did? Anyway, I remember seeing trendy restaurants and cool bars and hearing a story about Memphis being authentic, exciting and off the beaten path.
Nashville Was Our First Choice To Visit.
Nashville trumped Memphis on our bucket list soon after I became a hardcore new country music fan. After experiencing the blood-pumping, foot-stomping, incredible live music in Music City, we were inspired to search for more of the same in Memphis.
The Nashville v. Memphis Rivarly Is a Thang!
We heard of the rivalry between Nashville and Memphis. Some say it doesn’t exist. Others call it friendly competition. We wanted to see for ourselves and decide which of the two cities is better. We believe the rivalry exists. We are not convinced that it is friendly. To find out which Tennessean City rules, you will have to read on.
Memphis Is Definitely Not Nashville.
Honestly, we came to Memphis expecting Nashville. Nashville it is not. Don’t mistake that for a bad thing. It isn’t in our view. Nashville is polished, shiny and mainstream. Memphis is quirky, retro and colorful. Nashville is Music City. Back to Anthony Bourdain, he did a show on Nashville (not Memphis). It ended up being about music and not food.
Beale Street in Memphis 
The Famous Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge on Music Row in Nahsville
Memphis is music, but so much more. Memphis is history, culture, music, art and food.
Memphis gets an undeserved bad rap. A typical reaction when telling others we were travelling to Memphis was: “OOOhh. Isn’t it dangerous there?” or “Ugh, I heard it’s seedy and dirty.” Memphis is none of these. But, Memphis also is not mainstream.
Memphis is Quirky, Retro and Colorful, Kind of Like Us!
Memphis is like your favorite eccentric uncle. You know who I’m talking about. He is the old guy clad in an outlandish outfit, including the hat he’s had since the 1960’s. But somehow he still seems stylish and even kind of cool. He’s the guy that welcomes you with a warm wide smile, open arms and a corny joke. He loves fun, yet has a serious side. He can sometimes stun you into sudden reflection with his stories of tougher times. That is Memphis!
Everyone we met in Memphis was warm and friendly. Most people asked why we came to Memphis. Our honest response was, “We went to Nashville for New Year’s Eve and wanted to check out Memphis.” A common Memphian reply was, “They talk trash about us in Nashville.”
It Would Be a Sin to Visit Memphis and Skip Graceland.
Our first stop after landing in Memphis was Graceland. Why, you may ask? We needed a place to store our luggage for the day. Our apartment rental through Stay Alfred did not have luggage storage. Stay Alfred was making no accommodation for us to store our bags before the 3:00 p.m. check-in time. Plus, going to Memphis without visiting Graceland is like going to Rome and not visiting the Vatican. It seems sacrilegious.
Go to Memphis Because Elvis is Alive in Memphis!
It’s not weird that Memphis loves Elvis. Who doesn’t love Elvis? However, what was unexpected is the feeling that Elvis still lives in Memphis. Almost every where you go in Memphis there is evidence that Elvis is alive beyond the statues, photos, and museums.
You Will Find the Soul of Elvis Every Where You Visit in Memphis.
Visit Sun Studio in Memphis where Elvis recorded his first record. You can feel Elvis all around you. At the juke joints on Beale Street, you will find performers who not only cover Elvis tunes, but resemble Elvis not in a cheesy, but a modern way.
Around town you will find the Lansky Bros. Clothing stores selling contemporary versions of Elvis attire. Almost everyone speaks reverently of Elvis. Almost everyone you meet seems to have a tidbit of information about the King that you may never have
Shopping at Lansky 
Who Doen’t Need a Gold Sequin Suit?
Kiss the Wall on A Visit to The King’s Bedroom in Downtown Memphis.
For example, on a tour of the City we learned that Graceland isn’t the only former residence of Elvis that you can visit in Memphis. Before Elvis bought Graceland, the Presley family lived in the City of Memphis in public housing.
From September 1949 to January 1953, Elvis Presley and his parents, Gladys and Vernon, lived at 185 Winchester, Apartment 328, in Lauderdale Courts. The apartment has been revived to reflect the life and times of Vernon, Gladys and young Elvis in the early 1950’s.
Today, you can actually book the Presley family apartment for your stay in Memphis. In fact, word has it that you can even sleep in the very bedroom where Elvis Presley laid his head! If you do, don’t forget to bring a fresh tube of lipstick. Apparently, it is customary to pay homage to the beloved King by kissing the wall, leaving a lipstick imprint of your lips. To me, that sounds just plain gross.
Visit Memphis to Experience Elvis’ Legacy.
Honestly, I expected Memphis, or at least Graceland, to be infested with Elvis look-alikes. For sure, I thought there would be swarms of guys with bad died black hair coifed into a pompadour wearing flashy bellbottoms and white boots. Not at all. Instead of Elvis wannabes, we found the energy and spirit of Elvis alive throughout this interesting City.
Memphis rekindled our love for Elvis. Back home we found ourselves blasting and dancing to old favorite Elvis songs. In our excitement, we created a cool video photo collection of our trip to post on Instagram and Facebook to the song Burning Love. But then the issue of copyright infringement dawned upon us. Oops! The experience of Elvis and his legacy is one of the unique reasons to visit Memphis.
There are definitely many music legends from Nashville. But, we did not encounter the living spirit of a single one in Nashville in the way that we found Elvis alive in Memphis.
Are you Ducking Kidding Me?
Have you ever heard of the Peabody Ducks? Apparently, I have lived under a mushroom for the past fifty-plus years. The Peabody Ducks are literally world famous. Who would have known? I never heard of these ducks until we started researching our trip to Memphis. In a word, I would describe the Peabody Duck phenomenon as bizarre.
The Royal Marching Ducks Live at the Peabody Hotel in Downtown Memphis.
You can find the ducks downtown at the Peabody Hotel on the corner of Main and Monroe Streets, not far from the famous Beale Street. The Peabody Hotel is a grand throwback to the wealth and extravagance of the late 1800’s. The grandiose two-floor lobby of the Peabody is intricately carved mahogany, marble, brass, leather and brocade. In front of the lobby bar, a towering cherub fountain adorned with a huge elaborate bouquet of colorful fresh flowers anchors the lobby. The faint scent of orange blossoms floats through the air.
Here’s the really odd part. Five ducks reside in a Royal Duck Palace on the rooftop of the Peabody Hotel. I’m serious. Every day, twice a day, the ducks “march.” At 11:00 a.m. daily, the ducks descend from the penthouse palace to the lobby via elevator. The ducks are accompanied by The Duckmaster. Of course, The Duckmaster is dressed in a circus ringmaster-type suit and carries a gold duck-topped cane.
Go to the Peabody Hotel in Memphis for Pomp and Circumstance!
At 11:00 a.m. the elevator doors open. Dramatically, The Duckmaster and the Peabody Ducks march to the tune of John Phillip Sousa’s “King Cotton March” across a red carpet through the lobby until they reach the lobby fountain. At the fountain, The Duckmaster steps aside, and the ducks climb a short ramp into the water to swim on display for the day.
The elaborate fanfare repeats at 5:00 p.m. every day when the ducks exit the fountain, walk across the red carpet and into the elevator. Again, with pomp and circumstance they are escorted by The Duckmaster back to the rooftop Royal Duck Palace.
Arrive Early to See the Peabody Ducks March!
If all of that weren’t odd enough, the red carpet is roped off like it’s the Academy Awards. People from all over the world anxiously arrive an hour or more before the ritual to glimpse the ducks as if they were there vying for the chance to meet a world renowned celebrity. Getting there forty-five minutes before the show was not early enough for a front row spot along the rope. As a result, I was forced to stand a few bodies back from the rope, while Pat held the camera high above our heads anxiously hoping to snap the perfect Insta-pic of the red-carpet-marching famous ducks.
At only 5’2”, I was jostled and pushed by eager onlookers, but stood my ground peeking through the spaces between the people in front of me. I managed to catch a flash of the ducks waddling by the crowd. “Are you ducking kidding me,” I thought. Seriously, I could not believe that we all were there fighting the crowd to see ducks. Just ducks. They look like any ole duck you see outside. But these ducks, they waddle and flap on a red carpet!
Visit the Peabody for a Drink. Skip the Wacky Ducks.
The Peabody Hotel is a gorgeous place to stop for a drink. The rooftop party is supposed to be a blast. The Peabody Ducks are, well, sort of gimmicky. It is beyond me why the marching ducks are a world famous tourist attraction.
Once There Were the Drunken Goats on Memphis’ Beale Street.
Once upon a time the drunken goats lived at Silky O’Sullivan’s on Beale Street. Despite the Irish name, the bar claims that Silky O’Sullivan was known as the “Father of Barbecue.” Okay, that alone may not be so odd. However, Silky’s is also home to the drunken goats. Yes, you read that correctly. The goats live in a pen in the outdoor patio at Silky’s. Apparently, formerly it was a fun Memphian pass time to get the goats drunk on beer and watch them climb their goat tower. Silky’s stopped feeding the goats beer after PETA objected. Nonetheless, the goats still hang out and watch the crowd at Silky’s. I wouldn’t suggest going to Silky’s just to see the goats. They actually seem kind of sad lurking in the shadows of the patio bar area. On a sunny afternoon, however, Silky’s huge outdoor patio is a beautiful and happening spot for refreshments.
Visit Nashville If You Like Normal.
By contrast, we didn’t encounter any oddities in Nashville. To us, Nashville is like the perfectly staged shows you find all along Music Row. Memphis’ eccentricity, like that favorite uncle, is not only endearing, but gives Memphis character and makes it feel real.
Visit Memphis Because It Rocks!
Out of Memphis has come some incredible music including gospel, blues, jazz, soul, and rhythm and blues. Memphis is the birthplace of Rock N’ Roll. Memphis gave the world musical greats like Elvis, Muddy Waters, B.B. King, and Justin Timberlake.
Out of Memphis has come some incredible music including gospel, blues, jazz, soul, and rhythm and blues. Memphis is the birthplace of Rock N’ Roll. Memphis gave the world musical greats like Elvis, Muddy Waters, B.B. King, and Justin Timberlake.
If You’re Looking for Laid Back, Go To Beale Street in Downtown Memphis on a Thursday Afternoon.
From a distance, Beale Street looks similar to Nashville’s Music row. It spans several blocks and is lined with clubs, restaurants, and shops on both sides of the street. The street is closed to vehicular traffic. Iconic neon signs call out the name of the street as well as the names of the establishments along the way. Huge painted replicas of B.B. King’s legendary Lucille-style guitars standing ten feet tall are scattered along the sidewalk.
Walking down Beale Street in the afternoon, we were struck by how quiet it was. The clubs and restaurants were open. Unlike Nashville, however, there were no crowds on the sidewalks; there was no music blaring out into the street. Beale Street’s vibe is mellow, more reflective of the mood of the blues music for which is it famous.
Visit Nashville for Honky Tonks. Go To Memphis For Juke Joints.
Instead of the honky tonks we found in Nashville, Beale Street is lined with juke joints. Historically, juke joints were described as law-breaking, bawdy, rag-tag shacks that could only be found by word of mouth. The juke joints on Beale Street are no secret. There were hawkers scattered along the sidewalk gently coaxing patrons into to their joints with the promise of live music.
We didn’t find any fancy new celebrity-owned bars on Beale Street. In Nashville it seem liked there was one every few feet. The first place we wandered into on Beale Street, however, was celebrity-owned. Oddly enough, our first stop was “The King Jerry Lawler’s Memphis BBQ Company,” owned by the professional wrestler.
The connection between Lawler and Memphis barbecue was not clear. I have since learned that Lawler was born in Memphis and ran for mayor of Memphis in 1999. The place was our first glimpse of the quirkiness of Memphis. The worn bar decorated with World Wrestling Entertainment memorabilia and posters serves up Memphis barbecue with a side of rhythm and blues. There was no need to push through a crowd to get a drink. There were only a few patrons inside listening to the solo musician singing the blues. The atmosphere was unhurried with an undertone of sadness. We found this consistently throughout many of the venues we visited on Beale Street.
Visit Nashville for Top Notch Music. Visit Memphis for Music and More.
The music we heard in Nashville was consistently top-notch and mostly country. Although we definitely encountered rock and blues too. In Memphis we found that the quality of music varied as did the genre. It was, however, no less fun.
In Memphis You Can’t Resist Boogieing to the Rockabilly Beat or Jamming with a Rock Band.
We were cajoled into Club Handy by a mediocre senior citizen singer of a blues band who was actively recruiting fans from the street into the open venue. He was successful not only in garnering patrons, but in getting them all to dance.
We were highly entertained by talented rockabilly artist, Brad Birkedahl, at the more classic Blues City Café. Brad’s energy electrified the crowded bar. We rocked out until the morning hours to millennial rock band at Tin Roof. We stood back a bit while the younger crowd converged by the raised stage dancing and arm waving. We certainly didn’t want to get involved in a mosh pit or anything of that sort. Is that still a thing?
At Tin Roof 
Brad Birkedahl
We were nearly lulled to sleep by an old style film continuously running an interview and the music of Jerry Lee Lewis at his namesake Cafe and Honky Tonk. Because it was afternoon, the bartender excused us from the two-drink minimum.
Make the Trip to Memphis For the Blues.
We were enticed into The Rum Boogie Cafe, where guitars of the famous hang over the stage, by the compelling blues music of Eric Hughes Band. The band’s soulful music touched our souls so deeply that we purchased a CD.
Visit Nashville for the Best Live Music.
The music in Nashville was hands down some of the best live music we’ve ever heard. Nashville music made us sing and compelled us to dance. The music in Memphis, like the town itself, reaches deep into your soul. It can make laugh. It may make you cry. It brings back sweet memories. And, it brings to life the rich past that makes Memphis so unique.
Memphis is Colorful! Visit for the art.
We came across some street art while visiting Nashville. However, in Memphis there seem to be countless murals and works of art throughout the downtown areas. I think we lost count at 25! The massive murals not only adorn walls, but phone boxes and various other structures and fixtures in the City.
The Artery in Barboro Alley (east and west of Main) showcases several works of art. We loved searching for these murals with the Downtown Memphis Mural Guide we found online. In addition to the works in the Artery, the South Main Mosaic Artwalk is a collection of eight temporary public art installations throughout the South Main neighborhood featuring the works of local artists. It includes murals, sculptures and a street piano.
Memphis seems to be in the midst of a downtown revival. Old buildings, like the famous Hotel Chisca, where DJ Dewey Phillips debuted Elvis’ first recording of “That’s Alright Mama,” have been renovated into trendy apartments and restaurants.
If You Go To Memphis, Rockabilly Rides is Rad!
We arranged for a personal tour of Memphis with Rockabilly Rides. Brandon Cunning drove us around Memphis in a Tiffany Blue Color 1955 Plymouth Belvedere telling us about the city’s history and neighborhoods. It was rad! Brandon told us that there is a waiting list to live in downtown Memphis.
For Cool Vibes, Tour the Memphis South Main Street Area.
For $1.00 you can ride the trolley that runs up and down Main Street along the Main Street Rail Line. We wished that we had more time to spend in the South Main area. In this part of Memphis, some of the oldest haunts, Elvis’ favorite Arcade diner, Ernestine and Hazels and the Green Beetle, meld with trendy, new upscale and romantic restaurants like Catherine and Mary’s and The Majestic Grille.
Memphis Is Full of History You Must See.
Memphis is city living partially in the shadow of a past that is both tragic and exciting. There is a gritty and slightly melancholy quality to Memphis. The City is bound to its rich history.
Memphis was a major slave market. It suffered yellow fever epidemics decimating its population and leading to the City’s bankruptcy. Memphis was at the center of the Civil Rights Movement. It is the location of Dr. Martin Luther King’s assassination.
Lorraine Hotel houses the National Civil Rights Museum 
The wreath marks the location of MLK’s assassination
The vestiges of these tragedies are evident throughout the City and perhaps most obviously in the National Civil Rights Museum. The museum is built into the Lorraine Motel, the site of Martin Luther King’s death on April 4, 1968. You can spend an hour or days in the museum trying to absorb the enormity and significance of Memphis’ past.
The weight of its history did not seem to be hanging over Nashville as it is Memphis.
Memphis Thrives Despite Its History.
Memphis seems like one of those comeback story movies that everyone loves. Against the bad press and the undeserved bad reputation, Memphis is alive. Memphis continues to evolve. Memphis seems to be reinventing itself.
If You Know Bourdain, Know that He Would Have Loved A Trip to Memphis.
I’ll end where I began – with Bourdain. I read a quote online. This is not an actual Bourdain quote. But journalist Mark Fleischer’s prediction of what Bourdain would have said about Memphis if he actually had produced a show about the town. “This is a town,” he might have said, “that loves and loathes its rich, bawdy past. It has the soul of a slave – silently defiant, struggling with old shackles, refusing to die, hopeful for liberty and redemption.” Mark Fleischer, publisher of StoryBoard Memphis.
There is No Comparison Between Nashville and Memphis.
We love you Nashville. But, honestly, there is no comparison between Memphis and Nashville.
