Exuma has been on my list of beach destinations for some time. I first learned of the island several years ago from a friend who had visited. When she told me she went to Exuma, at first I was confused. Was she making some reference to Zoom Tan, a local tanning salon, or the skin condition, eczema? My friend explained that the Exumas are a collection of islands and cays in the lower half of the Bahamas. She described islands surrounded by crystal blue and green waters, white sand beaches, and an uncrowded, undeveloped, laid back atmosphere.
Upon a quick Google search, I was immediately drawn by the images of perfect unspoiled beaches that popped up. And, to be honest — I just like the name. I am easily amused and enjoy messing with people. I got a kick out of the baffled looks and crinkled brows when I told people we were traveling to Exuma.
Last year, after two trips to Europe in six weeks (while both still working more than full time as lawyers), we were both ready for some laid back beach time. As always, Lisa was trip-planning and asked where I wanted to go. I remembered Exuma!
What the Heck is Exuma Anyway?
For context, let me give you some background before I tell you the reasons you should visit Exuma. “The Exumas,” as they are properly called, are located 35 miles southeast of the more well-known Nassau. They are a chain of 365 islands and cays, configured into three major areas – Great Exuma, Little Exuma and the Exuma cays. According to their Minister of Tourism and Aviation, Dionisio D’Aguilar, “The sapphire blue waters of Exuma have wowed astronauts from space who declared them to be the clearest and most beautiful in the world.” I believe it! The spectrum of blue and greenish hues of the waters engulfing the Exumas ranges from sapphire to emerald turquoise to deep cerulean. The colors of the ocean are like none we’ve seen before.
Georgetown is the Capital of Great Exuma
We stayed on Great Exuma, which is 37 miles long and narrow in width. There is a single main road, Queen D’Highway, spanning the length of the island. Georgetown, located near the southern end, is the capital and the largest town. On our first drive through Georgetown, it seemed like I must have blinked and missed what I expected to be a larger place. There is no obvious downtown are in Georgetown. A handful of establishments are scattered around the relatively small area around Lake Victoria, along with an eclectic mix of government buildings, businesses, retail shops and food stores. It is not the kind of town where you park and walk a main street to visit shops and restaurants. In fact, there was not much tourist shopping at all. We found one boutique in town and an open air collection of vendors selling the usual tourist junk – t-shirts, key chains, jewelry, and such.
While Georgetown itself is unlikely to be the reason to visit Exuma, there are several reasons why you should. Here they are:
1. The Number 1 Reason to Visit Exuma is Incredible Beaches
We visited Great Exuma during the last week in February. The locals call this time of year the busy season. Yet, there were few people at many of the places we visited. Most of the beaches were sprinkled with only a scattering of small groups of people or couples here and there. Some of the beaches were completed deserted. Each beach is more beautiful than the next.
You Can Walk for Miles in Solitude on Three Sisters Beach
We rented Rayann’s Beach House through Home Away on Three Sisters beach. The beach is named after the three large rock formations in the water just off the shore. Located just about in the middle of the length of the island, Three Sisters beach is a perfect home base for exploring Great Exuma. The beach and the view from our vacation rental were so beautiful that we could have been perfectly happy just parking ourselves there during our entire visit.
Three sisters beach
Several mornings we walked the beach for miles and saw no life except the local beach dog who, invited or not, tagged along with us each day. There are stretches of Three Sisters beach where there are no houses or any other buildings. At points, the beach feels deserted. There is nothing but huge coral rocks, green brush, and powdery white sand bathed by the frothy surf. The surf is mild to moderate. We aren’t surfers, but the waves did not appear large enough for surfing. At times, the waves were definitely strong enough to knock you over if you were not paying attention. Notwithstanding the beauty and tranquility of Three Sisters Beach right in our own back yard, adventure got the best of us! We were compelled to find the best beach on the island.
Coco Plum Beach is an Instagrammer’s Dream
Our townhouse came with a list and directions to the “best beaches,” which included Coco Plum Beach. In addition, according our prior research, Coco Plum is at the top of the list. We agree. When visiting Great Exuma you must make the trip to Coco Plum Beach on the north end of the island. This beach is relatively easy to find. Drive north on Queen D’Highway. In between the towns of Steventon and Rolleville you can access the beach via a gravel road that shoots off perpendicular to the main road and leads directly to the coast. Signs directing you to turn off were fairly easy to spot when we were there.
Coco Plum is a protected beach with no waves. It is simply breathtaking. The water is crystal clear, ever-changing shades of turquoise and blue. At times the ocean looked almost lavender. Check the tide schedule, and plan to be there at low tide when the pink and cream-colored sand bars pop up out of the ocean. You can walk several hundred yards into water only two feet deep, or less. You may even find a sand dollar or two, a starfish, or a conch shell.
treasures on Coco plum beach at low tide
The first thing we noticed on arrival at Coco Plum Beach was a rustic, wood swing structure built in the water about 30 feet off shore. It looked exactly like all of those romantic photos of ocean swings with a beautiful young woman swinging with her long hair flowing behind her that are posted all over Instagram. And, there was no one else around! Jackpot – the perfect photo op for our blog and our @Chameleons With Carry Ons Instagram account. Excited by our find, Lisa rushed down the beach and waded into the water heading straight to the swing like a toddler at the playground. What came next was just perfect.
Every Picture Tells A Story, But Maybe Not the Whole Thing
Our efforts to mount the swings for the photo op would provide excellent material for a Saturday Night Live skit. The swings were over Lisa’s head. But, that wasn’t stopping her. Laughing and grunting at the same time, she made several attempts to pull her entire body weight up onto the swing using the strength of her skinny little arms. It didn’t work. In a comical, but perhaps sad beginning of the parent-child role reversal, our 23 -year-old son stood on the shore watching for a few moments before wading out into the water to lift his mother onto the ocean swing.
The Laurel and Hardy routine continued when I mounted the other swing (after several unsuccessful attempts that were no more graceful than Lisa’s). Laughing, again, and standing on the swing Lisa tried reaching for my hand. We were too far apart to comfortably hold hands for the photo. I was sure she was going to catapult into the water below. To my surprise, she didn’t.
For our encore — we couldn’t get the swings to swing more than a few feet in each direction. We looked like two toddlers on a swing set who were just learning how to “pump.” After all that, we ended up with a few great pics and an even better story! We have the blooper videos and photos for laughs, and then there were the ones “for show” on Insta (isn’t that what it’s all about?).
Driving on Exuma is an Adventure
Finding Jolly Hall Beach was a bit of a challenge. Queen D’Highway is the only road on Great Exuma with a name. There are other roads on the island with varying degrees of paving, but no names or designations. Similarly, most of the beaches are unnamed. Those that do have names usually have no obvious signage to help in identifying the location. The locals give driving directions by reference to landmarks like difficult to spot signs hammered to trees and garbage receptacles along the roadway. That makes beach hunting a bit of a treasure hunt. Arm yourself with a sense of adventure along with a sense of humor and just enjoy the ride. The hunt is worth the reward.
If you’re lucky, the directions to the beach you are looking for may refer to a local establishment along the main road, which may or may not make your destination easier to find. To add to the lack of signage, you must remember to “Stay left!” In the Exumas, you drive on the left side of the road. Plus, the steering wheel in our rental car was on the right side, and for some inexplicable reason the GPS was in Japanese – no joke!
Best to get out your binoculars when looking for beach access signs
We drove up and down Queen D’Highway a couple of times in the area of Jolly Hall Beach until we eventually spied the small beach access sign on the east side of the highway. To access the beach, park along the side of the road by the beach access sign, near the trash receptacle, on Queens Highway and walk down the path. Walking down the sand path through the brush and tropical plants, you reach a clearing and catch the view of the beach. At that point, it seems like you hear a choir of angels, or someone with they’re arms out and palms up saying, “Ta daaa!” It’s heavenly. You have the option of venturing left or right from the path onto the beach. In each direction, the beach spans approximately a quarter mile.
Finding Jolly Hall Beach Was a Treasure Hunt
Jolly Hall is a cove beach sheltered by Stocking Island. The beach is about a mile north of Georgetown. When were there a few sail boats were anchored in the cove adding interest to the already picturesque landscape. At Jolly Hall Beach the ocean gently ebbs and flows on the shore. There are no waves. You can walk several feet into the turquoise-blue-emerald sea.
There are no amenities on Jolly Hall Beach. We set up our blanket, chairs and a cooler and enjoyed Lisa’s favorite beach lunch – peanut butter and jelly sandwiches with potato chips and a can of beer. I’m not kidding. We spent a lazy afternoon on Jolly Hall beach reading and watching the ocean with only a few other people in the distance. The only reason we left Jolly Hall was to check out happy hour at Splash Bar at Hideaways Palm Bay, just south down the road.
How to Get to Tropic of Cancer Beach
There is some hype around Tropic Cancer Beach. I guess it is cool to be able to say you visited a beach through which the Tropic of Cancer passes. Lisa wasn’t sure she wanted to make the 45 minute drive there. Our neighbor at our townhouse reported that he had been there the day before and that it was “crowded.” Uncharacteristically, since she’s the boss, I insisted that we go.
From Georgetown, head south on Queens Highway. Follow the small bridge, called “The Ferry,” and follow the signs to Tropic of Cancer Beach. The roads get rougher as you get closer.
Tropic Cancer Beach is Not Beach is Not All that it’s Cracked Up to Be
The beach wasn’t “crowded” in the usual sense of the word. However, there were more people on Tropic of Cancer Beach than any other beach we visited on the island. It is a long expansive white sand beach, spanning about a mile. Upon entry you pass through a rough wooden shack selling drinks and snacks and through a threshold under a hand painted wood sign declaring, “Tropic of Cancer Beach.” There are no other services or establishments on the beach.
Tropic of Cancer Beach was probably our least favorite of those we visited. It is a lovely beach, but not the desolate destination we came to expect on Exuma. The reason to visit this beach is for the novelty of being able to say you were on the Tropic of Cancer.
Check out Santanna’s Bar and Grille
After visiting Tropic of Cancer Beach head south on the main road for about five minutes until you get to Santanna’s Bar and Grille. Santanna’s is famous because Johnny Dep allegedly hung out there during the filming of the Pirates of the Caribbean II and III. It’s colorful little outdoor spot to grab a cold drink and something off the grill. Bring a hat, sticker or something to stick on the wall or to hang above the bar and leave your mark.
The Bar at Santanna’s 
Santanna’s Deck
You Can Spend the Day at a Bar and On the Beach
There are too many beaches on Great Exuma to describe in this post. Some of the main bar-restaurants on the island, like Shoreline Restaurant, Big D’s Conch Spot, and Exuma Point Bar and Grille, have their own beaches often with beach chairs, picnic tables and hammocks. At these places you can laze the day away with food and drink just steps away. Not a single restaurant that we visited was busy.
Find Your Perfect Beach
To find other unnamed secluded beaches visit Google Earth or Google Maps satellite view. Look up and down the island for the white beaches, and you will see the paths from the main road. It may be a journey finding the beach you are looking for, but trust me, it is well worth the effort!
2. The Exumian People Are A Very Fine Reason to Visit Exuma
The Exumians are some of the most congenial people we have met in our travels. Everywhere we went on Exuma we felt welcome. The people seemed genuinely happy to talk and offer up information. Don’t miss the opportunity to meet the locals.
One of our favorite things to do when travelling is to try to really dig into the local flavor. After a day at the beach, and a stop at Splash Beach Bar for a $12 dollar drink, we pulled into the collection of huts on the water. We ventured to the last shed where a few locals were hanging out at the open air bar. We found just we were looking for.
Just north of Georgetown is a group of local bars and open air food joints housed in a collection of shacks. There is a big rusty tug boat and two barges rusting into the sand and water in the little bay area. Shirley’s Seafood is in the middle. We didn’t get to Shirley’s, but the word is that Shirley’s very good.
Go Where the Locals Hang
We ventured to the last shed where a few locals were hanging out at the open air bar. We found just we were looking for. We had the pleasure of meeting local resident experts on many things, Wellington McPhee and Curtis Glass. These two old friends in their sixties politely argued, corrected each other and made fun of each other the entire time. They were friendly, charming and informative. They told us of their U.S .travels and were interested in our travels. We shared drinks and stories. A few drinks in, we were bantering back and forth right along with them. This is authentic Exuma! Make a stop where the locals are at the bars and restaurants just north outside of Georgetown near Shirley’s.
Barraterre
If you make the trip to Coco Plum Beach, another local, and very rustic and interesting spot is Norman Lloyd’s Fisherman’s Inn in Barraterre. When you run out of road driving north on Exuma, you are in Barraterre. There is not much there except a small convenience store in the Lloyd house, a town dock and an open air gift shop. Up on the hill with tremendous views you will find the Fisherman’s Inn. It’s a rough place, kind of messy, but you will be welcomed and entertained by proprietor, Norman Lloyd. Mr. Lloyd charms the money right out of your wallet for a few more drinks than you may have intended on with his humor and stories. I enjoyed the cold Kalik beer on the very hot afternoon of our visit. I think the shots of Cannonball whiskey Norman insisted we take with him were on the house. We met a couple from Michigan at the Fisherman’s Inn. They have been traveling to Exuma for years. According to this couple, Norman is the best chef on the island. He cooks meals to order. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the opportunity to test Mr. Lloyd’s skills. When you go be sure to say, “hello” to Midnight, Norman’s four-legged friend.
3. Chat N’ Chill Bar On Stocking Island Is Worth a Trip, Or Two
Don’t pass up a visit to the famous Chat N’ Chill on Stocking Island. To get there take a five minute water taxi ride from the government docks in Georgetown to Stocking Island. If you can, go on a Sunday for the pig roast barbecue. Water taxis, boats and rubber dinghies from the sail boats moored between the two islands just skid up on the Chat N’ Chill beach. According to their website, these are the many things to do at Chat N’ Chill. The list is quite accurate. Here it is:
- Enjoy crystal clear shallow water that’s excellent for families with small children
- Feed and swim with the friendly stingrays
- Swim with Nicky and Noodle, Exuma’s friendly dolphins
- Sunbathe on powder-fine white sand beach
- Snorkel (bring your own gear)
- Play Volleyball
- Relax in the shade of the Casuarina Grove…join a game of dominoes or bridge
- Eat conch salad, learn how it’s made and experience the Out Island Lifestyle
- Take nature walk to the Atlantic coastal side of Stocking Island and see 90 foot sand dunes.
- Trek up to highest point on Stocking Island, The Beacon, to glimpse a breathtaking aerial view of Stocking Island and Elizabeth Harbor
- See Jacques Cousteau’s underwater mystery cave
It’s Definitely Chill at Chat N’ Chill
Chat N’ Chill is a funky shack of a place with hats, t-shirts, stickers, business cards, bathing suit tops (and one bottom) and graffiti adorning the walls. You can tack whatever personal item you may wish to leave as a testament to your journey on the wall, if you can find a place, that is.
chat n’ chill bar
On Sundays during the Chat N’ Chill pig roast, the bar may be crowded. Bernice, Shennie and the other bartenders hustle to keep the cold drinks coming. Some patience may be necessary, however. In fact, when you are visiting Exuma it is good to keep in mind that you are on island time. Some good advice from our hosts:
Everyone is on island time so remember EVERYTHING takes a lot longer here. Go earlier than normal for meals and plan on waiting 30 minutes to an hour for your food. Also, take lots of cash with you. Most restaurants are cash only.”
Advice from Mildred and Isadore Lloyd
The Drinks are Delectable at Chat N’ Chill
The huge frozen daiquiris and the Bahama Mamas are worth the $10.00. The pig barbecue is good, but they grab you at $20.00 for a plate of food. To be honest, we were’t overwhelmed by the barbecue.
Definitely Try the Fresh Conch Salad
The Conch Shack right on Chat N’ Chill beach is the place to go fresh conch salad. The salads are made to order from conch pulled right out of the ocean in front of the shack. If you have never tried conch salad you must try it, but only get one because they are large. As an added bonus, the conch salad chef hands out fresh scraps conch to feed the stingrays that glide through the ocean near the shore. Stand or sit in ankle deep water, and the stingrays will brush up against you. It was pretty cool to feed the stingrays and even cooler to touch them. They feel like velvet.
On the beach at Chat N’ Chill there are volleyball nets, hammocks, and other assorted games. The Sunday barbecue at Chat N’ Chill was not the wild party atmosphere we expected. There was music playing from the shack. The barbecue is served from the deck. Families gathered at picnic tables in the shade on the beach.
We enjoyed Chat N’ Chill so much that we returned for a second visit during our one-week stay on Great Exuma. Both times we stayed for hours.
Take a Water Taxi from Georgetown to Chat N’ Chill
When we were on Exuma were two water taxis running to Chat N’ Chill , Elvis’ and A-1 Water Taxi A-1 is run by the ever charming Elton, better known as “J.J.” J.J. is very friendly and knowledgeable. If you are under forty, at the end of the five minute boat ride you will probably exchange Instagram handles with J.J.. Your $15.00 round trip water taxi fare includes a photo with him!
4. Rake and Scrape Is A Riot
If you are looking to burn it down at night Great Exuma may not be your island. There seems to be some sort of entertainment going on at some location every night of the week. Look for the schedule in the Exuma Visitors’ Guide. We found that the Rake and Scrape party is the happening place to be.
Rake and scrape is a genre of music native to the Bahamas. Musicians play the Goombay drum, an accordion, and a hand saw, usually along with an electric guitar, bass, and sometimes key boards in the bigger bands. The rhythmic vibe of the music gets every one moving and grooving.
Visit Eddie’s Waters Edge for the Rake and Scrape Dance Party
We heard The New Eddie’s Waters Edge in Georgetown was where things would be hopping on Tuesday night.
Eddie’s has a big outdoor covered deck on the front of the building with plenty of picnic tables. When we arrived the deck was packed and people were spilling out onto the steps on both sides and into the parking areas. There was a two hour wait for the local fare at Eddie’s that night. At the bar, even though it was crowded, it was only about a two minute wait for a Kalik beer or a Goombay Smash (or any other beverage you may have wanted from the bar).
Eddie’s is not big on interior decorating. Inside is a mixture of unmatched tiled walls, paneling, a linoleum floor and poorly cut molding in a strange retro-local island style. It reminded me a little bit of Lisa’s Italian grandmother’s basement kitchen, but not on the same level of craftsmanship. A few minutes after 8:00 p.m., the band started playing. It was then that all hell broke loose. We were having so much fun that we forgot to take photos to share!
The music has an upbeat rhythm. It reminded me of soca and a little bit of New Orleans zydeco music.
It’s Impossible Not to Dance at Eddie’s
A local guy came in loaded with Mardi Gras style hats, masks and an apron-skirt thing adorned with feathers and bright colored fabric. The guy randomly chose patrons and dressed them in his party paraphernalia as he danced each one out onto the dance floor. No one seemed to mind. In fact, everyone seemed to quite enjoy it!
The whole the place crammed onto the dance floor. The large middle-aged yachting crowd predominated. Locals, tourists, guys in their work clothes from the day, the drunken guy with the white boots dancing like M.C. Hammer, the French girls in their sexy outfits and us — we all danced, sweating like the pigs we visited the day before. Beer and rum spilled as everyone bumped into each other grooving to the music. No one noticed, or cared. The Rake and Scrape party at Eddie’s was an extraordinary and entertaining blend of people, cultures and smells!
Rake and Scrape at Club Peace and Plenty
On Thursday night we caught a Rake and Scrape style band on the terrace at Peace and Plenty Hotel on the main circle in Georgetown. There was a poolside buffet, and the band played outside on the terrace. We recognized most of the same characters from Eddie’s at Peace and Plenty. The dancing and the vibe at Peace and Plenty was a lot more subdued than at Eddie’s, but still fun.
5. Swimming With the Pigs is Popular – is it Cool or Crap?
Most people have never even heard of Exuma. Those who have ask, “It that where you can swim with the pigs?” Yes, it is.
Here’s a secret we discovered about swimming with the pigs. We found that there are actually two spots to swim with the pigs. The original spot is on Big Major Cay, also known as Pig Beach. Tour companies offer pricey full or half-day trips to Pig Beach (along with a few other stops) for hundreds of dollars per person. These tours stop at a few spots — to swim with the pigs, swim with sharks and to visit iguana island. We didn’t do that. We drove ourselves to the north end of the island to Exuma Point Bar and Grille on the in Rolleville.
Visit the Swimming Pigs on a Boat from Exuma Point Bar and Grille
Exuma Point Bar and Grille is located on yet another gorgeous beach. There are lounge chairs for relaxing. There is a huge covered deck and a restaurant serving lunch and dinner. On the Monday we visited there was not much activity. We were the only four people there. For $50 per person, Exuma Point Bar and Grille will run you across to their pig island to feed and swim with the pigs. Before we went, a local suggested we bring a loaf of bread and carrots to give the salt water oinkers something to munch on.
Do they really swim? Well the pigs certainly get in the water and come out to the boats. However, I am not convinced that the pigs get in over their head and do the piggy paddle. As our boat approached, the pigs were in the water close to another boat that was already anchored near the island. When we arrived, a pack of pigs made their way in our direction.
Exuma’s swimming pigs are living proof of Pavlov’s theory. These humongous porkers are just interested in a little chow. Offer them some food, they will wade into the water and be your buddies.
Are they dangerous? Before we went we heard rumors of pigs biting people. Luckily, there were no biting pigs when we were there. I’m sure it can happen if you piss off a pig, or scare them, or maybe if they mistake you for a loaf of bread in a bikini.Our boat captain told us that if you splash water in pigs’ faces, they go away. Just stay in the boat if you are really worried about becoming a bacon bite.
We spent about 15 minutes of obligatory picture-taking in the water with the pigs and also of the six little piglets asleep up under the trees on the island. Then suddenly, we were overcome by swine poo! All at once, like someone blew a whistle, all of the pigs starting shitting in the water at once. Lisa and the girls who accompanied us started screaming and trying to dodge the all of the turds floating in the crystal blue water. However, I am like many men who are routinely told by their significant others to “stop being an Idiot.” Unlike the girls, I found the situation hysterical. I stood there laughing my ass off. To me, this was an even better photo-op! I snapped the perfect pics to send to my equally idiotic buddies.
Should You Go, or is it Best to Avoid the Swine Poo
The bottom line — I don’t think the pigs really swim. But, their turds really float. Is it worth it? Lisa says swimming with the pigs is gross. She didn’t even want to get out of the boat. She’d heard the stories of the biting pigs. When she saw how extremely large the pigs are, that didn’t help. Lisa also thinks it’s too expensive and not worth it. Yet, she eventually disembarked and probably took about 150 pictures.
My philosophy is: we are on vacation. I have a couple extra bucks on me to do things I wouldn’t normally do. This is one of them. Admittedly, at home, I usually avoid pigs in the water. Visiting Exuma’s famous swimming pigs is a unique adventure, if not a strange phenomenon.
I say swimming with the pigs is cool at the price of $50.00 from Exuma Point Bar and Grille. Plus, when you return home and someone asks the one question people ask about Exuma, “Did you swim with the Pigs?” You can say that you did!Lisa says swimming with the pigs is just crap!
6. Tranquility is Swimming with the Sea Turtles
After a few days on Exuma we learned from a local that sea turtles swim in Hooper’s Bay. The beach at Hooper’s Bay is another white sand beach. It is a cove sheltered by Stocking Island. Hooper’s Bay is located approximately two miles north of Georgetown right off the main road, Queens Highway, south of Jolly Hall Beach. Park on the east side of the road near the beach access sign and garbage bins. Follow the path along the concrete wall down to the beach.
Find the Sea Turtles at Hooper’s Bay
When you reach the beach, take a right and head south to the three docks near the other end of the beach. Wade into the water, or swim with your snorkel gear, and the turtles come right up to you. It’s really cool. There is something very tranquil about these big and small turtles casually swiming around you.
Don’t Feed the Sea Turtles
Be aware: there is a serious issue with feeding the sea turtles. Many people think it is OK. Boat captains bring in tourists and conch to attract and feed the turtles. DON’T FEED THEM! It will kill them. Sea turtles eat sea grass, which sustains their slow growth and shell development. Feeding them conch causes them to grow too fast in their shells, which eventually causes them a slow painful death. It makes me sad just thinking about it. Just swim around with the turtles, snap a few pics, and enjoy their tranquil existence. Help assure that the sea turtles will be around for a 100’s of more years so future generations can also enjoy their beauty.
7. Exuma is Known For Sport Fishing
The only fishing I do is in the cooler for the coldest beer in the ice and water at the bottom. If you are a serious fisherman, or even just looking to fish for fun, Exuma probably has what you’re looking for. If you are interested in deep-sea fishing, bottom fishing, fly-fishing or reef fishing, Exuma has it all. Exuma is world-renowned for its bone fishing. Also found in the deep waters of the Exuma Sound are tuna, barracuda, sailfish, blue marlin, wahoo, mahi-mahi, king fish, and the list goes on. Half-day and ful- day professional charters are available. I hope that with the steep charter prices, they fish that cold beer out of the bottom of the cooler for you.
8. The Sunrises and Sunsets On Exuma Are Spectacular
Our townhouse on Three Sisters beach had a gorgeous view of the beach. The bedrooms were on the second floor. We kept our blinds open and awoke every morning to the sound of the waves and the most beautiful sunrises over the silvery blue ocean. Honestly, can you think of a better way to wake up every day?
Find a Place on the Westside at Sunset
Catching the sunset was not quite as easy watching the sunrise since we were on the east side of the island. Although, at dusk the ocean and the sky seemed to blur together in a blend of blue, pink, silver and gray.
Catch A Fire Is Closed
We didn’t find any establishments on the west side of the Island. There are two locations we discovered on the west side that would be phenomenal to watch the sun dip into the water. The only problem is — they don’t seem to be open to the publci. Catch A Fire looks like it was a funky waterside club-bar with a boat launch and a dock, but it was closed down. I believe Catch A Fire is closed due to a fire. However, I bet you could bring a cooler with drinks and hang out for the sunset and no one would disturb you. You could probably have the whole area to yourself for free!
The Cays is a Quiet Holiday Rental Resort
Nearby, we also stumbled upon resort called, “The Cays.” The Cays is a small exclusive development of 13 properties located on the beach on the south side of Exuma. There is very cool bar and pool area right on the water. When we drove up, it was very quite. There were people sitting around the pool and beach area relaxing. However, the only person by the bar was a 6-year-old local boy who said the bar wasn’t open. He didn’t explain any further to my inquiry if that meant the bar was closed for the day or for good. We have since learned that the cottages are private rentals, and the bar is an honor bar. The Cays looks like a fantastic spot to catch a sunset.
Both The Cays the former location of Catch A Fire and can be reached by heading east off of Queens Highway on to Moss Town Road. Turn left when you see the sign for “The Cays” on the side of the road. The gravel road is roughly a mile down. There was nothing else down there. Pack that cooler and go on the adventure!
9. Visit Exuma for a Laid Back Unpretentious Island Destination With Stunning Unspoiled Beaches
We went to Exuma in search of our perfect beach destination. What exactly is that? We look for a place where the beaches are not crowded. To us, soft white sand, clear waters, and sheltered swimmable beaches are ideal. We prefer casual over elegance. We would rather stay in a beach cottage and make our own coffee in the morning than a big resort and be served. Fun and funky beach bars are required. Ideally, we could walk everywhere and never have to get into a car. Exuma ticked nearly all of the boxes. The only thing we didn’t find is a central location to stay where everything you would want is within walking distance.
If you are a looking for a laid back unpretentious island destination with stunning unspoiled beaches, Exuma is definitely the place and perhaps even our #1 place to go. We can’t wait to go back!
The Wrap Up
The Vibe: Laid, back beach and nature.
Good to Know: Just like on other islands in the Bahamas, we found that the “no see-ums” can be brutal. They are biting flies smaller than fleas. Their bites are painful, and can cause intensely itchy welts, worse than mosquito bites. Bring and frequently apply an insect repellent. It seems like they are the worst around dusk.
What To Do: Lounge on a beach, enjoy nature, explore the hundreds of cays.
What to Wear: You really don’t need anything but a bathing suit, a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. Very casual attire is appropriate even in the fancier restaurants.
When to Go: Anytime. Locals told us that it was busy season at the end of February, when we visited. At that time, there were not a lot of people around. No place was ever too crowded.
How to Get There and Around: There are direct flights to Exuma from Nassau, Fort Lauderdale and from Toronto . We recommend renting a car if you plan on exploring the whole island. Taxis seem like a really expensive option. From the middle of the island to Georgetown (about 12 miles) the cab fare was $40.00. We rented from Airport Car Rental right across the road from the airport.
Where we stayed: We booked our townhouse through Home Away. There are only two large resorts on the island. Both Sandals and Grand Isle Resort and Spa are on Emerald bay, a mile-long stretch of ivory beach at the north end of the Island. Sandals is an all-inclusive brand. Grand Isle is a mix of condos and luxury villas in a gated community with full amenities, including golf carts to scoot around the complex.
Where We Ate: We shopped at the local food stores and ate many of our meals at home. If fine dining is a priority, Exuma is not your island. While you can find good food, I don’t believe the foodies out there would be very impressed with what they get. Most restaurants offer the local “Cracked Conk” or a fresh “Conch Salad.” We were disappointed that we were not able to get conch salad at some of the places we visited. They told us that they are unable to dive for the conch in high winds. See our reviews on TripAdvisor for more information about restaurants.
Our Shoes: We usually like to suggest footwear for a destination. Considering – comfort, weather and of course, style. I am always trying to find boots that work for all environments. However, on Exuma, that goes out the window. If you are not wearing sandals or flip-flops, you are seriously over dressed for comfort, weather and style. If you are on one of these beautiful white powder sand beaches, you had better be barefoot!
