I always wanted to visit Lake Placid, New York, located in the Adirondack Mountains. Over the years I had heard of the world-class dining, plush resorts and spas, adventurous mountain hikes and vistas, and the Olympic facilities in Lake Placid. For me the allure of Lake Placid was my vision of a Dickens-like village that hosted the winter Olympics (twice!) and the opportunity for outdoor exploration as we as R & R. The trip did not disappoint. Set on shimmering Mirror Lake with a mountainous backdrop and Main street as its hub, the Village is enchanting. Our three-day get away was an excellent adventure combined with a perfect dose of blissful relaxation.
Tucked in the Mountains, Lake Placid Maintains An Eclectic Charm.
Pat Enjoying the Firepit at Pickled Pig
The Adirondack Mountains are home to the largest protected natural area in the lower 48 of the United States. The Adirondack Park is larger than the combined areas of Yellowstone, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon, the Great Smokies and Glacier National Parks. The Lake Placid Region is in the northern Adirondacks encompassing the Ausable River of the Whiteface Region as well as the highest peaks of New York — there are 46 of them.
Don’t Confuse the Town of Lake Placid with the Lake!
Oddly enough, the Village of Lake Placid is located on Mirror Lake, and not on the lake just north of Mirror Lake, which is actually “Lake Placid.” Visiting the Adirondack Alpine Village of Lake Placid fees like taking a trip back into the late 1950s-early 1960s. Just outside of “downtown” Lake Placid, we passed an eclectic mix of motels, hotels, swank lodges, diners, restaurants, and ice cream stands. The main scene is, not quite Dickens village, but more like original 1950s Tudor meets gingerbread design. Newer lodges of timber construction exuding understated posh retreat are hidden down winding tree-lined lanes. Lake Placid, is at the same time, small town and international, old money and monied hippie — a destination of refreshing contrasts and endless possibilities for adventure and rejuvenation.
Lake Placid Maintains A Small Town Feel.
What struck me most is that even after hosting two winter Olympics, Main Street Lake Placid remains small town in the way it looks and feels. Walking down Main Street we found a lovely old stone church and classic movie theater amid the shops and restaurants. The ubiquitous scent of fires blazing warmed the brisk October air. We loved that so many area restaurants offer outdoor fire pits surrounded by Adirondack Chairs, of course. There were so many spots sit outside to enjoy a drink and a bite, day or night, year round! Set against the calm, silvery gray Mirror Lake, looming dark mountains in the background, and under the bright blue and white cloud October sky, Lake Placid evokes another contradiction. It is both peaceful and exciting. Our pursuits during our visit fell distinctly in to both categories.
Visit Main St. Shops, Boutiques, Restaurants, Cafes and Such.
We explored Main Street, wandering in and out of the shops and stopping here and there to enjoy a drink by an outdoor fire and eventually for a light lunch. Our favorite shop was Saratoga Olive Company. The olive oils and balsamic vinegar sold in the shop are displayed in large glass containers for tasting with small chunks of bread. There are so many to taste and to choose from that it is dizzying! We ultimately settled on a traditional balsamic vinegar and Milanese Gremolata olive oil. The oil is light with a bit of a fruity flavor and a hint of lemon. It is so delicious that I am tempted to drink it straight out of the bottle. Saratoga Olive Oil Company also carries other goods like cutting boards, wine accessories, wood kitchen accessories, and unique cooking items.
Try the Funky Downtown Diner!
“Prepared Pat” awoke early on the morning that we planned to hike Mt. Jo. The 2.6 mile hike is rated “family friendly.” However, we read warnings online that if you fail to arrive early, you risk being closed out of the parking lot. That adds an extra mile to your hike. We didn’t discuss it, but we were both secretly concerned about the hike. Though presumably suitable for children, we worried that it may not be so easy for these two inexperienced 50-somethings. We were bundled up in layers ready for an arctic freeze and outfitted with backpacks filled with water and energy bars, a knife, twine and who knows what else (in case we were injured or stranded). In this condition, we headed out for our first high peaks hike together.
First stop — the funky Downtown Diner. The diner located on Main Street as you head south out of town on Route 73 for a “good breakfast.” It is definitely the only diner we have ever seen with sparkling chandeliers and vinyl booths and stools mended with colorful fuscia and purple duct tape. Pat, a tape fanatic, was clearly impressed. We both enjoyed a full breakfast for under $15.00. The service was quick.
Mt. Jo – A Perfect Hike for the Novice.
The timing of our arrival at Mt. Joe was impeccable. The swarms of people raised some concern. Was the hike going to be a line of people walking up the mountain? Not quite the solitude I had imagined. My trepidation grew when we entered the information center. The weather blackboard at the entrance of the High Peaks Information Center reported sunrise and sunset times; the board said that temperature at the summit was 9 degrees Fahrenheit with winds of 45-55 mph! We waited in line while the hikers ahead of us gathered maps and directions and rented spikes for their boots.
What? I know at that point Pat was thinking to himself, “What has she gotten me into now?” This time, he kept it to himself. When it was our turn, I reported to the guy at the counter that (unlike the people in front of us who were planning a 26K round trip hike) we were “just planning on hiking Mt. Jo.” He replied, “Oh nice! Great day for it, ” and graciously did not laugh when I asked if we needed spikes for our trip. As we discovered, the spot was the location for a number of trail heads, in addition to Mt. Jo. The spikes are for hikers heading for the high altitude icy peaks. Phew! Not us.
At A Leisurely Pace Mt. Jo Is 2-Hour Hike.
As it turned out, the 2.6 mile round trip hike took only about two hours. We took the short, rocky and sometimes steep trail up and the more gently descending trail down. I would describe the short trial as lightly challenging; we were definitely slightly winded at times. The reward at the peak — a panoramic view of the High Peaks. At first, we were completely alone at the top. That brief moment gave us the opportunity to appreciate the magnificence of the High Peaks and quiet solitude. I couldn’t help but think how tiny we are all as individuals in this world of natural beauty and how infrequently we stop to take notice.
Soon a group of four joined us at the top, and then two more after them. We all anxiously exchanged cell phones to snap photos of each other. I wonder how many of us immediately posted them on social media? I admit that I attempted to send a photo to my daughter, but failed due to poor reception. It saddened me a little to acknowledge that even at the top of a High Peak in the ADK most of us remain addicted to our smart phones instead of being present in the moment.
Don’t Miss the Olympic Sites in Lake Placid!
While in Lake Placid we stopped at a few of the Olympic Sites. I imagined an “Olympic Village” and was surprised that the Olympic Sites are not a single venue, but various sites located throughout the area. On Veteran’s Memorial Highway you can drive nearly to the top of Whiteface Mountain for famed panoramic views. Unfortunately, it was closed at the time of our visit.
Before You Go, Call to See if the Olympic and other Venues Will be Open.
Various people not affiliated with the Olympic Sites told us that the highway generally closes on October 1 each year. Unaware, we actually attempted the drive and the road was blocked. Since it was late afternoon, we assumed the road was closed for the day and asked a couple of construction guys if the road closes at 4 p.m. One of them responded, “Yeah. It closed at 4:00 p.m. on October 1, 2018 (twenty days earlier). You don’t want to go up there at this time of year. It’s the place from hell. Nothing but ice and wind.”
After attempting to visit a few of the sites, I realized that the information on Whiteface.com about the Olympic venues was neither clear nor completely up-to-date. The Cloudsplitter Gondola ride at Little Whiteface, another attraction advertised for views, was not operating. I did not find this information anywhere on the web. Even when we arrived, while the facilities clearly were closed, there were no signs or information posted anywhere.
Activities at the Bobsled, Luge and Skeleton Track are Intense.
I was really pumped to try the Bobsled Experience at that Bobsled Luge and Skeleton Track at the Olympic Sports Complex, and Pat agreed to coming along for what would surely be a wild ride! Unfortunately, the Bobsled Experience was not operating either. We visited the complex anyway. It was worth the half-hour trip. We quickly passed through the small Olympic bobsled and luge museum and went outside to where the tracks are. Olympic two-man luge athletes and a female skeleton competitor were performing practice runs. There were only a few other visitors in the area, which seemed otherwise deserted. We stood around and waited for several minutes wondering if anything was going to happen, but when it did it was pretty intense. We caught one run of each, or at least Pat did.
The athletes are announced before they start the run, and the announcer narrates the event, noting each numbered curve that they approach. We had no idea what curve we were standing on, but we could definitely hear them approaching. I turned my head away from the direction of the sound for a split second just to move around Pat for a better view, and the lugers came and were gone! Out of the corner of my eye I caught barely a passing blur, and screamed, “Holy shit!” I could not believe that I actually missed them.
Views from the Top of the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex are Awe-Inspiring.
We also visited the Olympic Ski Jumping Complex. At the base, only the gift shop in the lodge was open. The chair lift was closed. Out on the deck we watched junior competitors practice jumps on the lower practice runs, without snow! While the junior run looks like the “kiddie mountain” with the Olympic competition run soaring into the sky above it. I imagine that there should a signing declaring: “Do not attempt this stunt at home. You will risk serious injury or death.”
Look How They Can Fly!
To glimpse the extreme adrenalin rush the ski jumpers must experience, you must take the elevator to the top of the 393 foot (26 story) tower to the top of the ramp where the jumpers launch. Standing at the top of the ramp I thought, “How on earth does one decide – this is what I want to do?” While we were wandering around the area, we saw a jumper walk up the stairs with his skis on his shoulders to the 90 meter (295 foot) tower and launch! Watching him, I understood completely why it’s called “flying.” He launched, gracefully flew through the air for several seconds, landed on the grass, removed his skis, and casually walked away. Wow.
Fire Pits Blaze at The Cottage on Mirror Lake.
The perfect way to cap off our afternoon of outdoor activity was a late afternoon snack and beverage at The Cottage at the Mirror Lake on the outside terrace. The Cottage is at the north end of Mirror Lake with an expansive view to the south. In late October the terrace was full. We lucked out in getting a table. Multiple fires burned in fire pits and one in a wood burning stove conveniently tucked into a corner of the terrace to encourage viewing of both the fire and Mirror Lake. Small groups of diners cozied up to the fires and to dine at tables while taking in view of the lake. Sitting beside our own fire pit, we enjoyed wine and beer, flatbread pizza, and baked brie with apples and walnuts.
Inside The Cottage the wood bar opens to the dining area. The aged hardwood floors and wood beam ceilings exude warmth. The tables all come with a view Mirror Lake. The food was about average, but the view and the rustic and inviting atmosphere inside and out compensate for the mediocre fare.
It Can Be A Perilous Trek Along High Falls Gorge.
During our stay in Lake Placid we took a short hike at the High Falls Gorge. High Falls Gorge is a privately owned nature park. When you enter and leave High Falls Gorge you have to go through the Adirondack Gift Shop, where you buy your ticket. The shop is filled with tempting local items you probably don’t need but end up buying thinking you might have a place for it — like in a garage sale ten years down the road. Attached to the gift shop is the Riverside Café serving beer and wine and a rumored decent burger.
High Falls Gorge 
Photo After Lisa’s Dramatic Slid Down the Stairs 
Walkway Along High Falls Gorge
The hike takes you over a suspended metal walkway alongside and across the gorge, which cuts through the Ausable River. There are three waterfalls along the hike. The views are awesome, presenting great photo ops in front of the powerful river ripping through the massive rocks. In some places standing high above the water on the cable, wooden and steel bridging system you feel as if you are dangling treacherously above the falls. Take note – at at the start of the trail the first set of about 12 stairs leading down to a small platform for viewing the largest and highest waterfall may be wet from the mist emanating from the falls. At the time of our visit the temperature had dropped from 60 degrees and sunny the day before, to 26 degrees, snowing and windy as hell.
Proceed With Caution When Temps are Below Freezing!
The brief hike was pretty cool in the wintry setting, but potentially dangerous as well. As Lisa started her decent on the steps of the first viewing area, she unknowingly stepped onto the third step covered with ice that was hidden by a dusting of snow. Suddenly her feet flew above her waist, and she began a rapid ass-bounce down the stairs heading toward the small viewing platform extending out over the falls. Holding on to the ice covered rail failed to slow her rapid descent. I thought for sure that she was going to be launched off the end of the platform into the abyss of rock, water and ice below.
When In Doubt, Just Yell.
Totally unable to do anything to help as I stood at the top of the steps behind her, I yelled, “What the hell are you doing,” as if that would somehow decelerate her fall. Eventually, Lisa came to a stop on her own just two steps from almost certain death. She turned and said, “Thanks for the help, ” and crawled upon back up the stair. Following that blip of excitement , we proceeded more gingerly on the rest of the walk while enjoying the breath taking views.
After walking along the river, we ventured into the area of the hiking trail which isn’t more than a path thru the woods for about a mile. While great for small kids, the woods trail clearly was not designed for the serious hikers that frequent the area. The walk along the gorge and the nature trail didn’t take more than 45 minutes even with stops for picture taking and falling. Overall a High Falls Gorge is a good spot for some very cool views and photos, or something to occupy the kids for a while you grab a big boy or big girl drink at the cafe. It’s worth the stop if you have the hour to spend.
Revel in High End Pampering at the Whiteface Lodge.
Whiteface Lodge 
Located just off of Route 86 about a mile west of Main Street Lake Placid, The Whiteface Lodge is tucked into the Adirondack landscape. According to their website, the Lodge is listed as one of the best hotels in the country. The Whiteface Lodge goes all out to make the traditional Adirondack stay a pampered holiday, including modern, high-end amenities.
The the grounds and the hotel replicate the traditional Adirondack style lodge. Both the exterior and interior are constructed with exposed natural timbers. It seems like full trees stripped of their leaves and branches support the expansive lodge building. The dimly lit lobby warmly welcomes guests and visitors. The décor continues to the second floor where Peak 47, a bar and restaurant, is located. Across the landing from the Peak 47 is another magnificent upscale dining area, Kanu, with a high vaulted ceiling and floor to ceiling windows bringing the views of the mountains inside.
The Whiteface Lodge also boasts indoor-outdoor pools and jacuzzi for year round enjoyment, a bowling alley, fitness training room, movie theater, ponds, outdoor camp fire pit and many other amenities for all ages. A featured amenity of The Whiteface Lodge is the full service spa and salon offering just about any type of treatment you may be willing to buck up for. We splurged on a 80-minute couples massage, followed by a bubbling salt bath. The spa treatments were just what I needed to prep myself for the 16-ounce Adirondack brown lager that I later found at Peak 47. Clearly, I enjoy pampering.
Be Sure to Arrive Extra Early For Your Spa Treatments.
All in all, the Whiteface Lodge is likely to meet all of your expectations as long as you are willing to pay for it. A couple of things to note – the pre-treatment the relaxation areas are separately located in the men’s and women’s locker rooms. Before our treatments we enjoyed a too-brief soak in the outside Jacuzzi in the midst of 28 degree temperatures and lightly falling snow flakes.
When checking in at the spa we specifically asked about the pools and spas. While we were given directions to the pool area, the spa attendant neglected to inform us that you need a key card to get in. The pools are quite a distance through underground hallways from the spa. Unfortunately, when we discovered that we had to return to the spa desk to retrieve the key card for entry, we also realized that we were running out of time before our scheduled treatments to enjoy the pools. If you would like to relax and enjoy the pools and jacuzzi before your spa treatments, I suggest arriving at least an hour in advance of the time of your appointment to allow enough time to check in, change and walk to and from the pools.
Lake Placid is a Pleasantly Peaceful, Yet Adventurous Destination.
On our last morning in Lake Placid we stopped at The Breakfast Club on Main Street for creamy, frothy cappuccinos and over sized bagels before taking the 2.7 stroll around Mirror Lake. It’s an easy walk and worth the time for views of the the surrounding mountains from a variety of vantage points as well as historic and more recently constructed extravagant homes situated along the lake.
Maybe next time we’ll kick it up a notch and opt for a more vigorous high peaks hike. The Bobsled Experience will definitely be on the itinerary, and we’ll spend more time lounging in the pools at The Whiteface Lodge. Lake Placid was not exactly what I imagined, but then it is rare that things are. I am happy to report, however, that Lake Placid, exceeded my expectations. In the quirky, little storybook village of Lake Placid we found adventure and pampering. It’s a destination focused on reveling in the outdoors, breaking out of the confines of our daily lives. The trip gave us an opportunity not only to reconnect with nature, but with each other and to take some time absorb the stunning beauty of the Adirondacks, one of nation’s greatest nature reserves.
The Wrap Up
The Vibe: International, Olympic, Monied Hippie, Old Money.
What To Do: Mountain and trail hiking, boating, fishing, nature walks, visit Olympic venues, spas and pampering, fine dining.
What to Wear: In the fall, dress in layers and be prepared for extreme weather changes. The day time temperature ranged from in the high 50s to the 20s during the in the three days that we visited. If you plan on hiking, a good pair of hiking boots, or at the very least, cross training sneakers are essential. Even on our Mount Jo easier mountain hike there were tricky rocky areas and areas where we needed to use our hands to climb. In the evening, dress is smart casual in most places.
When to Go: Lake Placid is a year round destination. The locals told us that March and April are the slowest months. We went in late fall when “leaf peeping” is popular, but had missed the peak. Book more than two months in advance. I made our reservations six weeks in advance, and at that time most places were fully booked.
How to Get There: You need a car when in Lake Placid. The closest international airports are in Albany, NY, Burlington, VT, and Montreal, Canada, which are all under three hours driving distance to Lake Placid. Lake Placid is approximately a 4.5 hour drive from New York City.
